Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i know all the RB motors have the slight boost leak from the back of the rocker covers from the gasket, just wondering how you would get rid of it? could you drop a front mount cooler in and that will eliminate the boost leak?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436079-boost-leak-from-the-rb-motors/
Share on other sites

hey guys, i know all the RB motors have the slight boost leak from the back of the rocker covers from the gasket, just wondering how you would get rid of it? could you drop a front mount cooler in and

that will eliminate the boost leak?

Erm. . What?

To eliminate boost leaks you need to eliminate the chance of boost being forced out of the areas that inevitably leak, such as your rocker cover gasket (very prone to boost leaks these little bastards).

The problem lies in the intercooler itself, despite what you may think, the intercooler actually exacerbates your cam cover boost leak mate. When the intercooler fills up with boost, it enters the engine but because there is still an entire intercooler filled with boost, where do you think the excess boost goes? Exactly. Right out the cam cover and into the atmosphere.

To stop this, you simply get rid of the intercooler(s). Leave the intercoolers for the N/A cars, they're good for absolutely nothing on a turbocharged vehicle. By getting rid of your intercooler you have less lag and less built up pressure to to wreak havoc on those poorly designed cam covers.

So go to autobarn or repco, or even chop your neighbours kids' trampoline up and make some turbo piping. Route the piping from the turbo straight to the throttle body. Less lag, less pressure on your cam covers, more customz, more bitches.

Simple as that.

  • Like 3

You all don't know what your on about. The BIGGEST boost leak on an RB is from the little black round container behind the LEFT headlight, the charcoal canister. While eliminating the intercooler will fix the cam cover leak, eliminating the charcoal canister will stop the over fuelling.

You see, when the turbo comes on (boost leaks from the cam covers at this point), boost pushes through the charcoal canister (which filters the boost & mixes with fuel vapour) through to your fuel tank to pressurize it, which makes the turbo REALLY REALLY laggy.

Also sends turbo pressure to the fuel tank to push fuel into the engine on boost as the fuel pump alone isn't enough.

Thanks why on some cars you get a WHOOOSH noise when you open the fuel cap.

Also sends turbo pressure to the fuel tank to push fuel into the engine on boost as the fuel pump alone isn't enough.

Thanks why on some cars you get a WHOOOSH noise when you open the fuel cap.

Ahhhh my car doesn't go whoosh, does that mean I need to mount a turbo in the boot just for the petrol tank?

Also sends turbo pressure to the fuel tank to push fuel into the engine on boost as the fuel pump alone isn't enough.

Thanks why on some cars you get a WHOOOSH noise when you open the fuel cap.

I must be doing it wrong because mine doesn't do this. Does this mean I need a new engine?

I was thinking of upgrading from the RB25 to one of those SR20's anways

You all don't know what your on about. The BIGGEST boost leak on an RB is from the little black round container behind the LEFT headlight, the charcoal canister. While eliminating the intercooler will fix the cam cover leak, eliminating the charcoal canister will stop the over fuelling.

You see, when the turbo comes on (boost leaks from the cam covers at this point), boost pushes through the charcoal canister (which filters the boost & mixes with fuel vapour) through to your fuel tank to pressurize it, which makes the turbo REALLY REALLY laggy.

dafaq?

You know on the charcoal canister there's a valve that stops pressure from going into the canister when there's +ve pressure on the manifold.

Fuel tank is not pressurised on boost, who the hell told you this?

dafaq?

You know on the charcoal canister there's a valve that stops pressure from going into the canister when there's +ve pressure on the manifold.

Fuel tank is not pressurised on boost, who the hell told you this?

:domokun:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...