Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Long time lurker but have had some great help from some of the guys here over the years.

I currently have an 01 M35 Stagea. Great car and I've kept it standard, so far, other than removing the front prop shaft as the forward universal was shot and nobody seems to be able to supply or repair.

But, went to drive off today after being parked overnight and ...

No climate control, which was stuck on the last setting with the fan on full bore. No radio, no climate control display. No pop-up screen display. Also, the wing mirrors don't swing out as they usually do.

Nobody I've spoken too today has heard of this, so thought I'd ask here.

I've checked all three fuse boxes and all fuses test good.

Any ideas ???

Cheers

Scott

Edited by UnBlunt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436403-this-is-a-curly-one/
Share on other sites

check all the fuses, I had go in my R32 GTR that stopped the windows and instrument cluster and the fuse was marked something else all together

Thanks for that.

Pulled and checked all fuses one by one, with multimeter. All good.

Cheers

Scott

yup, its a known issue.

I don't know the details but there are many accounts of something that goes dry solder os something that gives up in the central fascia unit. It takes out the radio and AC at the same time.

Have a search, I think the V Series section has some more info on it, but basically your looking at an expensive fix, or by a secondhand unit and fit it in. Do some searching on the site, I'm sure you'll find more info.

yup, its a known issue.

I don't know the details but there are many accounts of something that goes dry solder os something that gives up in the central fascia unit. It takes out the radio and AC at the same time.

Have a search, I think the V Series section has some more info on it, but basically your looking at an expensive fix, or by a secondhand unit and fit it in. Do some searching on the site, I'm sure you'll find more info.

Thanks for the Info PN-Mad

I searched previously, but couldn't find anything other than mention of the ignition key position and wear factors in the ignition barrel.

No mention of the wing mirrors being involved either.

Another possibility is apparently the BCM failing? Although its strange, as the car starts and drives with everything else working normally ?

Cheers

Scott

Yeah, thats what I thought at first too, except there's no mention of the wing mirrors failing. And they're nowhere near any stereo wiring etc.

Plus, the stereo head unit was replaced 5 months ago, with one from a 50,000 km car.

Cheers

Scott

Checked for water/moisture behind the battery, and in the drivers kick panel fuse box?

Thats cause a few weird ones of late.

Yep, and I had the same thing happen just a few months back.

Major corrosion in the module behind the battery, that'd obviously been going on for years. Removed and replaced all corroded parts and has been working fine for almost 5000kms now. But it was the first thing I checked and all appears ok there. I guess it's possible that its developed another fault related to the first, but the issues with the radio, climate control and mirrors all point towards something else, IMHO anyway.

Cheers

Scott

Tested battery? May be working but weak? Checked earth(s)?

Battery tests ok, and it should have full voltage when running anyway.

Tested most of the visible earths, but will hunt for the hidden ones today and check.

Cheers

Scott

whenever i get anything electrical i always start with removing, scrubbing and re attaching all groundwires, they do the most random things when they dont get the contact they wish.

chepaest and easiest things first.

Edited by GH05T

Firstly do the mirrors fold and unfold using the folding switch? Have you checked that the button to enable the automatic folding feature hasn't been accidentally bumped?

Does it have a japanese dealer fitted alarm? Is the alarm working? Usually the folding mirror box is located under the steering column mine was plugged into the alarm box, first thing I would do is check the scotch locks, on everything fitted by the japanese. Motion disable, folding mirror feature.

You haven't mentioned if the head unit is actually getting power? Is it turning on?

Since this is all happening at once sounds like a ground issue/loose connection?

In the series 2 with the climate control going full ball and AC on lowest is usually caused by a flat cable that connects the front panel to the bose unit which is passed through to the cars loom. So if the bose unit isn't getting power correctly, I suppose an issue like this would occur.

Who replaced the head unit?

Firstly do the mirrors fold and unfold using the folding switch? Have you checked that the button to enable the automatic folding feature hasn't been accidentally bumped?

Mirrors don't fold or unfold using the switch. But the mirrors fold in with the alarm remote, as usual, if you manually pull them to the out position first.

Does it have a japanese dealer fitted alarm? Is the alarm working? Usually the folding mirror box is located under the steering column mine was plugged into the alarm box, first thing I would do is check the scotch locks, on everything fitted by the japanese. Motion disable, folding mirror feature.

Alarm remote is in the key ? Checking scotch locks now - didn't think anyone used them since the '80's ? They were great for fitting Cobra & Piranha alarms when I used to work for them though ;)

You haven't mentioned if the head unit is actually getting power? Is it turning on?

Since this is all happening at once sounds like a ground issue/loose connection?

Head unit is not turning on at all, but haven't pulled it out to check power yet.

In the series 2 with the climate control going full ball and AC on lowest is usually caused by a flat cable that connects the front panel to the bose unit which is passed through to the cars loom. So if the bose unit isn't getting power correctly, I suppose an issue like this would occur.

Who replaced the head unit?

I replaced the head unit. No problems that I remember.

Cheers

Scott

Sounds like the common Bose stereo issue to me...

Ditch it for an aftermarket head unit and dual din facia, why would you waste your time sticking an OEM back in.

Yep, I agree. But an aftermarket unit won't work either without power going to it !

Cheers

Scott

No power coming through the loom to the head unit. No constant, ignition or standby.

Also, powered the battery in the car with another via jumper leads, just to check that the current drop on start wasn't too great. Nothing changed.

Had the head unit out and checked earths, connectors, loom etc. All looks normal. Checked BCM wiring and loom - nothing obviously wrong. Alarm is connected next to BCM via 4 x scotch locks. All connections test ok.

Cleaned and re-fitted all visible earthing points under bonnet.

Cheers

Scott

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...