Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, looking to swap/sell my 86 VL commodore. to cut things short alot of money has been spent on this and am looking to upgrade. car can be registered, currently is not.

Twincam RB25/30 makes around 145kw At the wheels. Engine is only 2000km old been run in etc... cost around $10k incl purchase of engine.

Re-painted with walkinshaw front bar and bonnet scoop.

All bushes have been replaced by nolathane poly bushes. brand new

Brand new locked diff, 32" axles with disk brake rear end. cost me $6000

Haltech platinum sprint 1000 with custom tune cost $3000

Custom made extractors and side pipe 3" to suit engine. cost another $3000

Front brakes AP racing 4piston with DBA 5000 calipers race pads.

Excedy heavy duty clutch 2000km old.

Catch can setup, Fuel pump/surge pump upgrade in boot.

battery relocation in boot

haltech sensors upgraded to use with ECU

Engine has been balanced with a JUN racing oil pump. rb25 n/a pistons with 30 rods used. aftermarket cams and oversize valves fitted. crank collar is fitted. adjustable cam gears.

only thing to fault is gearbox 2nd gear syncro is crunchy on quick shifts. is a rb30 manual box.

Not sure what its worth. im sure i can easily pull out 40k worth of receips spent on it, i know ill never get it back. looking to swap for a GT-R preferably registered. tell me what youve got. feel free to sms on 0424409992. Im sure theres more ive missed. sounds amazing on the track and is something for the different buyer.

Price $25,000 NEG.

post-85514-0-86253900-1387181633_thumb.jpg

post-85514-0-57736700-1387181794_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436407-fs-swap-1986-vl-commodore-rb30de/
Share on other sites

If you want something different then this is it. GT-R's are going for not that much at the moment. im happy for a low to mid range r32 someone trying to sell for $15k.... as long as mechanically its sound.

  • Like 1

25k is what id be "happy" with. of course theres way to negotiate, but considering i just spend 20k within the past 3 months and effecively the car hasnt been used i dont think so. if someone was looking to do this sorta work rather than spend 50k this is almost complete, "for racing" would make a nice weekend cruiser. not to mention the initial cost of engine rebuild, respray etc...... lol

Op can ask for whatever he wants i guess, but OP, put into perspective

20-25k can get you:

Clean CT9A Evo's

R33 GTR

VE SS Commodores!

XR6 turbo

Supra

All of which are better equipped, have more power, newer and more sort after.

Spends 40K on car and motor... Still gets beaten by an SV6 commodore...

Don't know what you're talking about, but my mate has an SV6 VZ with minor mods done to it and i beat him..... theres no way a factory sv6 would beat it..... same engine Power 400-500kg less, you dont need to be an expert to work that one out !

and to other comments, it may seem steep, but if youre looking to do this amount of work, you wont be any better off, considering everything is still new id rather sell it now rather than wait 5 years when everythings older, ive got an F6 FPV as a daily and i wouldnt swap this for that, or anything else in the price range, this is a track car or weekend/cruise car, its a pig to drive...im sure a few of you know what i mean. If it sells within the next month or so it does if it doesnt ill hang on to it and finish it off.

Don't know what you're talking about, but my mate has an SV6 VZ with minor mods done to it and i beat him..... theres no way a factory sv6 would beat it..... same engine Power 400-500kg less, you dont need to be an expert to work that one out !

and to other comments, it may seem steep, but if youre looking to do this amount of work, you wont be any better off, considering everything is still new id rather sell it now rather than wait 5 years when everythings older, ive got an F6 FPV as a daily and i wouldnt swap this for that, or anything else in the price range, this is a track car or weekend/cruise car, its a pig to drive...im sure a few of you know what i mean. If it sells within the next month or so it does if it doesnt ill hang on to it and finish it off.

You have to look at it from a buyers perspective.

Dollar for dollar, you will get better value from an 08-09 VE SS commo with 200RWKW (there are some beautiful examples in car sales for 22-23K) compared to what you are offering.

Sure you may get a couple of die hard VL fans that would pay your asking price, but factor in the amount of choice out there, your asking price is just too high.

Not trying to rain on your parade, but it's a buyers market right now, if you want to sell, you need to move a bit on your asking price - sub 20K

Why do you think your VL is so special? The amount of $$$ you spent doesn't mean jack at the point of sale. The buyer doesn't care, they just want the best deal, and i'm afraid your's is not.

put it on calaisturbo forum

you won't get any nibbles here unfortunately, it's just like trying to sell a 1993 Honda Civic with 1x billion dim sim mods for $19k.. won't happen.

  • Like 2

Trying to sell it here because, im on this forum not the commodore one funnily enough, and because the engine is "skyline" related. im not trying to sell it to someone who wants it as a daily, everyones missing the point. why would you spend 20-25k on a ss to track it? theres better options out there. besides this is quicker than an ss or falcon equivalent on the track....

I agree with you totally, there are better cars for the track. here's one example..............

Again, not being an arse, but you are missing the point.

You have a nice car, but OVERPRICED......

I can buy a VL turbo equivelant for 10K cheaper that will smash yours around a track

post-74132-0-53139200-1387700394_thumb.jpg

post-74132-0-62792400-1387700401_thumb.jpg

Don't know what you're talking about, but my mate has an SV6 VZ with minor mods done to it and i beat him..... theres no way a factory sv6 would beat it..... same engine Power 400-500kg less, you dont need to be an expert to work that one out !

and to other comments, it may seem steep, but if youre looking to do this amount of work, you wont be any better off, considering everything is still new id rather sell it now rather than wait 5 years when everythings older, ive got an F6 FPV as a daily and i wouldnt swap this for that, or anything else in the price range, this is a track car or weekend/cruise car, its a pig to drive...im sure a few of you know what i mean. If it sells within the next month or so it does if it doesnt ill hang on to it and finish it off.

Straight line you may be quicker... But go turn a corner...

Even Evo 7s can be had for less than your asking price, and they'll whoop you in a straight line and around a corner as well as cruise way nicer, attract less police attention and be gentler on your pocket in both insurance and petrol...

  • 3 weeks later...

Straight line you may be quicker... But go turn a corner...

Even Evo 7s can be had for less than your asking price, and they'll whoop you in a straight line and around a corner as well as cruise way nicer, attract less police attention and be gentler on your pocket in both insurance and petrol...

Its quicker overall, straight line and track..... getting into an evo is a different story lol.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...