Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What time approx will the day finish as I have to fly back to work that evening?

Is it to late to enter or have all places been filled ?

Can I bring the misses and a m8 or do they pay entry fees as well?

What time approx will the day finish as I have to fly back to work that evening?

Is it to late to enter or have all places been filled ?

Can I bring the misses and a m8 or do they pay entry fees as well?

Finish around 5ish although you are welcome to leave earlier if need be.

Spectators don't need to pay. Spaces still available.

I have completed the application, awaiting reply along with my friend James . Looking forward to attending.

Email sent mate.

Sorry to anyone who hasn't received a message. I'm not getting notifications on my phone any more... :/ Where's our resident IT guy?

Ok guys just thought I would post up a check list of stuff you should inspect and if need be fix on your car before hitting the track.

Check all fluid levels, engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil, radiator coolant, power steering fluid. Top up or change if it is due and make sure there are no leaks.

Check tyre pressure and inflate if necessary.

Make sure everything in your car is secured down and can’t come loose ie battery, speakers, sub box. Items that are loose in your car remove them at the race track, stuff like the spare tyre, tools. Less weight in the car means faster times.

Helmets – must comply with, or exceed, the standards AS1698, make sure it is in good condition as this is the only thing protecting your head.

AASA licence – You can either buy a day licence for $20 or a year one for $55, if you are going to 3 or more sprint events at either Queensland raceway or Lakeside park in the next 12 months it makes sense to the year licence.

The forms for the licence can be downloaded here http://qldraceways.com.au/files/00-5B0-5%20QR%20Licence%20Application%20ver2.pdf It would save you time to print and fill out the licence form before arriving at Queensland raceway.

Bring some zip ties lol. You will need these to attach your timing chip to your car.

The most important thing is go out there and have fun

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...