Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 - Vq35 Install Using Vq25Det Turbo Setup

C-Red

By C-Red,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted (edited)

HKS actually use the OEM VQ25det manifolds in their old kit except for the crossover part of the manifold behind the engine so we know they will bolt on.

Everything else is pretty similar so I can't imagine why it wouldn't... except for the loom/ECu side of course

Edited by iamhe77
M35woah Rising Star

M35woah

Posted
Posted

HKS actually use the OEM VQ25det manifolds in their old kit except for the crossover part of the manifold behind the engine so we know they will bolt on.

Everything else is pretty similar so I can't imagine why it wouldn't... except for the loom/ECu side of course

Yup, but HKS also have that weird flange adapter for the the turbo.

But also changing ECU means you have to go RWD manual though? Otherwise wouldn't you have the change the whole driveline?

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Manifolds isn't the main issues. Yes, they bolt on, but the engine management side of things would be the biggest head ache.

Also sorting a turbo and wastegate to suit the 3500cc with the confined packaging.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Yup, but HKS also have that weird flange adapter for the the turbo.

But also changing ECU means you have to go RWD manual though? Otherwise wouldn't you have the change the whole driveline?

Change ECU and loom to the PNM35 items. I do not know if it has different connectors than the VQ25det for the speedo etc

Then just run a piggyback or get it flashed.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Change ECU and loom to the PNM35 items. I do not know if it has different connectors than the VQ25det for the speedo etc

Then just run a piggyback or get it flashed.

Change all the ecu's and all the looms. Don't like the sounds of that, too much work and headaches, and for what? The VQ25det is the better engine, unless you plan to drop 15k into the VQ35.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Change all the ecu's and all the looms. Don't like the sounds of that, too much work and headaches, and for what? The VQ25det is the better engine, unless you plan to drop 15k into the VQ35.

Sure, but the question was installing a VQ35 into an NM35 and using all the turboey bits

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

The turbine housing is way too small, and the manifold studs will need to be swapped around... And the gearbox won't bolt up, and the starter is in the wrong spot...

Then the cams won't work... and the real drama's begin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • TurboTapin
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • MBS206
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...