Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I'm putting in a wireless reverse camera tomorrow and wondering if I can splice into a reverse trigger wire at the shifter. Anyone done this and possibly remember color of the wire, might save me some time rather than checking all the wires with a multimeter.

Being wireless there was no need to run cables the full length of the car so it would be a shame (and very time consuming) to have to splice into the wires in the rear somewhere. And defeats the purpose of getting the wireless one.

Any input much appreciated.

Thanks

You will still have to splice a wire in the back to power the camera when in reverse. At the same time as powering the radio to switch to reverse function. I always check the wires with a multimeter just in case. There will be a wire under the console somewhere

LT.pdf

I don't think it will be as easy as you hope. Even Pin 41 on the TCU (rev lamp relay) is 0V when in R position & battery voltage when in any other position, so it depends what you need to trigger the display. If it's 12V, you may as well run a wire up front as Brad so rightly suggests.

Yep, best spot to get power is the reverse lamp I would say. The shifter doesn't control any wiring, it comes from inside the gearbox sump. You will need to splice at the tcu in the passenger side kick panel.

I've done it! Found the reverse 12v positive wire behind the drivers side kick panel in the biggest loom. I will splice into it and use that as the trigger wire.

For anyone else that needs to know its behind drivers side kick panel inthe big loom. It's the orange wire. (There are a few orange ones but the others are twisted in pairs with other wires, the correct one is not twisted). It's 12volt+ only in reverse and 0volts when not in reverse as its the light feed.

Much easier than running wires the whole length of the car..... Not to mention the sealed up tailgate!!!! That's why I decided to buy wireless.

Scotty, it Wasn't that hard to pin point really, after I checked the color of the wires at the tailgate plug and tested there before moving down to the kick panel.

Hopefully this post will save other people some time if they need to wire up a wireless camera.

  • 2 years later...

Thread resurrection...

Big thanks to walkoau for the wire identification, I got the Renault camera and wireless sender mentioned in this thread hooked up and working with aftermarket head unit.

Camera - > av sender - > 12v from reverse light

Headunit reverse input -> orange wire in loom

Headunit - > av reciever -> switched 12v

or give us a snapshot for BCM pin for reverse signal?

Sorry, I did not get that close just lifted carpet near sill on drivers side, saw bundle of wires and scratched off some plastic on the first orange wire that was not paired - multimeter read 12v only when in reverse. I just patched in wire at that point and feed back up behind the dash.

If I get a some spare time I will try to trace it back and snap a pic. In any case should not take long to test a few cables should you not get lucky like me and easy to reinsulate the wrong ones.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...