Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I finally got around to uploading almost a years worth of photos to the pc. I installed the gear back in september pretty easily, a little mucking around to fit the krx2 in the front doors, but all the trims fitted correctly after. I might have 5mm clearance on the back of the woofer to the window glass when down, also the x-overs are in the doors and fit perfectly towards the hinge end.

Here are the pics, comments welcome

post-42311-0-38041800-1387803730_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-80260200-1387803733_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-21031700-1387803737_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-59582100-1387803740_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-86412700-1387803743_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-31186500-1387803747_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-26078200-1387803750_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-08867800-1387803753_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-56129200-1387803755_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-24537200-1387803758_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-25817200-1387803795_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-86717600-1387803797_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-02797400-1387803801_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-45333100-1387803811_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-79075300-1387803821_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-66359600-1387803824_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-32898700-1387803827_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-11663400-1387803830_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-68382400-1387803832_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-54198300-1387803924_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-83043600-1387803971_thumb.jpgpost-42311-0-84669200-1387803976_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436694-r32-audio/
Share on other sites

Not bad. A suggestion on the baffles in the door though. Put the vertical tab back on. When you slam on your brakes everything in the pockets will end up in the door.

Second thing is the amplifier ground. Front seat rail has several bolt holes. Use one of those after removing the paint.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436694-r32-audio/#findComment-7153464
Share on other sites

yeah sounds great overall, happy but i think i should have got two seperate amps and maybe that second sub, at times seems to be struggling to keep up with the splits - ill be playing around with different enclosures(sealed) in the new year to try and help. wishing i still had access to uni of wollongong's elec department oscilloscope and rta though lol. multimeters are ok but when you've used the proper equipment its hard to use the basics and expect fantastic results

the vertical tabs to stop things sliding through the pockets was identified early and appropriate measures were taken lol. lets be honest here, they arent much use for storing anything other than a couple of cds here and there, it doesnt help having sausage fingers either.

not sure what you mean about the grounding though chris??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436694-r32-audio/#findComment-7153998
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Hey mate how did you do the headdeck??

I'm having trouble with mine at the moment ..

There's a 4pin yellow plug a large multi pin plug that looks like two plugs joined together, has front speakers and power, then another 6pin yellow plug that has rear speakers and factory amp..

What iv done:

Run separate cables to the rear speakers so now I just wire them into the headdeck loom (purple and green) I got a cheat loom from supercheap that plugs into the large yellow multi pin plug.. Then wired corresponding cables and plugged it all in and nothing happened.. Fuse is ok..

iv noticed on mine I have a black cable in the bottom left corner of my cheat loom that doesn't line up with anything from the factory plug..

Also the 4 pin yellow plug has the same colour cables as the large multi pin plug, do I need to wire the smaller one into the large one??

Also do I need to do anything with the multi pin plug with the rear speakers and factory amp??

One more thing haha I have a orange cable sitting behind my deck with a male and female plug that has a red tag with Japanese writing all over it.. Wtf is this? Lol

Any help you can give would be great.. Cheers

post-133531-0-21638500-1394939020_thumb.jpg

post-133531-0-92563700-1394939043_thumb.jpg

Edited by Jake_32gtst
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436694-r32-audio/#findComment-7229026
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...