Jump to content
SAU Community

The Automatic Thread - Questions

tripsteady
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

steve200b
steve200b

most people haven't been in a car with a built auto, once you have you won't mind spending the money once on a good auto. only issue with an auto is you can't kick the clutch but i like my car with th

Anfanee
Anfanee

Oh i came here thinking that if i ask a question it would be automatically answered. Guess i came to the wrong neighbourhood.

Posted Images

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Any word on the nistune?

I want better fuel Econ, so piggy backs are a waste of money.

Nistune won't help much with economy over an Emanage Ultimate, as leaning out cruise mixtures slightly isn't going to save you bucket loads of fuel. Keep the car stock if you want good economy, or buy something lighter than 2 ton and without a low compression engine.

Trex Grand Master

Trex

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nistune won't help much with economy over an Emanage Ultimate, as leaning out cruise mixtures slightly isn't going to save you bucket loads of fuel. Keep the car stock if you want good economy, or buy something lighter than 2 ton and without a low compression engine.

Can't nistune manipulate closed loop? From what I've been reading and what tuners have been telling me, It will work a lot better than a piggy. Should see 50-100k's more per tank.

Just found out it can't manipulate closed loop, but you can turn it off and set your own parameters. Probably not the best idea to mess with that though.

So when they talk about getting more k's out of the fuel, they must mean while on boost which an auto is always on boost. So a piggy isn't such a bad idea. Until it starts to break down.

What would you pick Scotty?

Edited by Stagea97
tripsteady Proficient

tripsteady

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can't nistune manipulate closed loop? From what I've been reading and what tuners have been telling me, It will work a lot better than a piggy. Should see 50-100k's more per tank.

Just found out it can't manipulate closed loop, but you can turn it off and set your own parameters. Probably not the best idea to mess with that though.

So when they talk about getting more k's out of the fuel, they must mean while on boost which an auto is always on boost. So a piggy isn't such a bad idea. Until it starts to break down.

What would you pick Scotty?

safc + sitc combo :) Am I right?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

So when they talk about getting more k's out of the fuel, they must mean while on boost which an auto is always on boost. So a piggy isn't such a bad idea. Until it starts to break down.

You actually do have a modicum of control over closed loop running when your ECU is one that has VE maps. So that's R34, later Stageas and later SR engines for the most part.

Regardless, the common trick with older ECUs is to isolate the region of the map where you do your most cruise miles and turn off closed loop and lean out just there. That gets you the best bang for buck fuel saving without quite as mcuh risk as just turning off closed loop everywhere (such as the risk is, which is nothing according to some and catastrophic accordiig to others!)

But yes, leaning off the horrid rich on boost mixtures in the stock map and adding ignition timing back in under load also gains you a fair bit of extra economy, even when up it. The problem is that the car becomes better to drive, so you tend to lean on it more and use more fuel anyway! :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • MBS206
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...