Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU

I've had a recent issue with my R32 GT-R in regards to the vehicle not starting.

The situation is that I parked the car in the shed and threw a cover over it. Upon returning two days later to take the car out for a drive, it simply wouldn't start.

The starter motor does turn over, the fuel pump primes when the key is rotated to the ignition barrel and there are no fault codes being identified by the ECU. It just won't turn over and start. I have dropped the fuel, threw the battery on a trickle charge and tried a few days later but to no avail.

Any insightful information to direct me to the cause of the problem would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436817-r32-gt-r-not-starting/
Share on other sites

I'd try another battery. Trickle charging a faulty battery is a waste of time.

+1 and batteries can do funny thnings when old or dying, could be enough charge to crank but not enough for fueling and/or ignitionn etc..

Check you earth lead, make sure its grounded properly to the engine/chassis..

I once spent a week chasing what i thought was a dead starter, it turned out being that i needed to remove the ground leads everywhere and sand all the points.

Boy did i feel like a useless carnt after working that one out.....

I've tried 3 batteries, all to the same result. Although, the newest one did sound like it was the closest.

PaulosECR33; It doesn't try to fire at all, starter motor just keeps turning over to nothing.

I'm going to change the plugs and fuel filter at some point and have another crack.

I'll also have a look at the earth leads and make sure they're all in order.

Will report back with any new developments but don't hesitate to keep bouncing ideas off me.

Take off the cas and turn it by hand with ignition on. should be able to hear the injectors firing, and pull a coilpack off abd check for spark at the same time . They should give you more info as to what the prob us.

it is worth trying this old chestnut right now because it can be the issue (I know from experience - today!)

Ignitor - swap with a friend who has one. 5 minutes will rule it in or out :thumbsup: and is the easiest thing to do

need a 4mm allen key and 5 minutes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...