Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been thinking weather or not to ditch my attesa system in the R32 (not a half-ass RWD switch, but full proper deletion). But I intend for my car to be used for time attack, and wonder just how much it actually aids in traction. This is something I'm worried about since I went with an RB30, and it makes a hell of a lot more torque then my 26 lump.

The car does have 275/40r17 hoosier A6 tires on it, but just how much is that a limiting factor on the rear wheels before attesa is worth its wieght? Ive driven this car at the track before, but that was with a fairly stock setup, now the setup is a ~650hp RB30 engine, will the attesa make or break this car? or is it something that can be done away with?

I wonder whats the forums input who have tracked both GTR (or even high power GTS) on the track, R32 model. Is it worth keeping?

Cheers.

Edited by Idon28
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436975-how-important-is-attesa/
Share on other sites

I notice the latest GTR still has it! Decide for yourself. Do some laps with it on and some with it off.

To get full advantage you probably need a good LSD in the front as well (Quaife?!) and possibly a controller to tune the front rear distribution.

Don't plan on getting rid of mine any time soon.

It was good enough for the Nissan / Gibson Motorsport cars to retain it. ATTESSA doesn't just work off wheelspin.

Im pretty sure the group A racing cars back in the day had to retain the same configuration as the road car, so they had to retain all that I think.

But even saying that, if they could change it I doubt they would of. I really cant see the ATTESSA slowing a car down especially when you install a torque controller for constant AWD, they really handle well.

Im pretty sure the group A racing cars back in the day had to retain the same configuration as the road car, so they had to retain all that I think.

But even saying that, if they could change it I doubt they would of. I really cant see the ATTESSA slowing a car down especially when you install a torque controller for constant AWD, they really handle well.

Nah, Gibson changed it.

Yes, the architecture of the system is the same, but they run a manual torque controller that allows the driver to select the forward torque percentage.

I figured. Oddly enough I do own both a GTR and a GTST, when both where fairly stock (no handling mods, just very light engine mods for both). Sure my GTR kicked ass on the strip, but I got faster times in my GTST on the track, and in autoX, the GTR was just a boat.

Yeah, I'll keep the attesa and see how it goes. I realize that ATTESA factors for alot more then wheel spin, but It was one of my main concern when pushing 3X the stock power level to the hubs. I'll just play with my suspension to try to get rid of the horrid understeer my GTR was having, probably purchase an ETS controller too.

Edited by Idon28

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...