Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys i am wanting to sell my 1997 Nissan skyline R33 Series 2 Manual. It was in a small accident and has small damage to the front of the car, all this car needs to start up is practically a new radiator . Will put some pictures up. Message me if your interested. Everything in this car is stock no mods done except the exhaust system, car comes with Speedy cheetah's 18" with about 90-95 percent tread on tyres as i put new rubber on about a month before the accident, 109000km on the odometer, Chasis is not bent or kinked in anyway.

post-74895-0-93154800-1389956550_thumb.jpg

post-74895-0-76177500-1389956574_thumb.jpg

post-74895-0-81619100-1389956614_thumb.jpg

post-74895-632315_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437736-r33-repairable-write-off/
Share on other sites

For anyone reading this and looking to repair the car, it will also need a radiator support, and inner guard.

Most likely headlights, and reo bar, and front bar.\

And as per rules, price?

The car already has radiator supports, but needs 1 headlight and reo bar and front bar. Open to prices, if anyone is interested just offer me a price, if you need any more pictures of anything just let me know

The car already has radiator supports, but needs 1 headlight and reo bar and front bar. Open to prices, if anyone is interested just offer me a price, if you need any more pictures of anything just let me know

The bent Radiator support, or a new radiator support?

Still needs guard etc fixed.

  • Like 1

For anyone reading this and looking to repair the car, it will also need a radiator support, and inner guard.

Most likely headlights, and reo bar, and front bar.\

And as per rules, price?

"all this car needs to start up is practically a new radiator"

He's talking about what is needed to START the car, congrats on f**king up another for sale thread in your regular cock method. The rest of us road users would never have worked out that it needed a front bar, headlights etc. You must be some sort of car wizard!

  • Like 2

Sorry guys $2 :)) actually I am going to fix it up myself just need to find a nose cut

I have the headlights, radiator support and passenger side guard if you need it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...