Jump to content
SAU Community

Cylinder #1 Dropping Completely

SkudR33

By SkudR33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

GTSBoy
GTSBoy

Injector loom, but not ignitor. Seeing as the ignitor is on a whole other loom for a whole other part of the fuel-go-bang system.

SkudR33
SkudR33

Hey guys, Been trying to troubleshoot this issue which occurred one day while I was driving the car during the stinking 35+ degree hot weather. My 1st cylinder is not firing at all. Some days it s

..::R33GTS-T::..
..::R33GTS-T::..

id defiantly give it a go, worst case after you pull everything out is that It works, then you know the injectors wont be the issue.. my old pulsar was misfiring on 1st cylinder, replaced leads, plug

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

I tried this - water didn't really bubble. A tiny amount of white froth developed as the coolant started to get hot. Not sure if that's meant to happen but I read up that it froths a little when the radiator starts to build up pressure.

Massive head f**k it has become!

that sound about right and my best guess is HG, just enough to upset the cylinder pressures

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
Posted

I have a feeling it's the injector. Are you sure they're brand new? I bought the fiveo 1000cc injectors and they are 2nd hand high flows and one even had surface rust. I wouldn't recommend the high flows really. It can be difficult to cold start my engine now.

SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
that sound about right and my best guess is HG, just enough to upset the cylinder pressures
I might buy a block tester to check your theory! Thanks for your advice...
I have a feeling it's the injector. Are you sure they're brand new? I bought the fiveo 1000cc injectors and they are 2nd hand high flows and one even had surface rust. I wouldn't recommend the high flows really. It can be difficult to cold start my engine now.
Yeh they were brand new. Even looked new - I knew they were shit injectors but needed something temporarily. You guys think it's a good idea to remove the first injector and then plug it in and crank car over to physically make sure petrol is getting squirted out of the injector? A bit of a big job to swap 1st and 2nd injectors as they are side feed and I'd have to remove the plenum.:)
..::R33GTS-T::.. Proficient

..::R33GTS-T::..

Posted
Posted (edited)

I might buy a block tester to check your theory! Thanks for your advice...

Yeh they were brand new. Even looked new - I knew they were shit injectors but needed something temporarily. You guys think it's a good idea to remove the first injector and then plug it in and crank car over to physically make sure petrol is getting squirted out of the injector? A bit of a big job to swap 1st and 2nd injectors as they are side feed and I'd have to remove the plenum. :)

id defiantly give it a go, worst case after you pull everything out is that It works, then you know the injectors wont be the issue..

my old pulsar was misfiring on 1st cylinder, replaced leads, plugs, did a compression test, exc.. it was a little water in the dizzy cap... got nothing to do with rb`s but it was just a simple problem...

Edited by ..::R33GTS-T::..
  • Like 1
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

I might buy a block tester to check your theory! Thanks for your advice...Yeh they were brand new. Even looked new - I knew they were shit injectors but needed something temporarily. You guys think it's a good idea to remove the first injector and then plug it in and crank car over to physically make sure petrol is getting squirted out of the injector? A bit of a big job to swap 1st and 2nd injectors as they are side feed and I'd have to remove the plenum.:)

Won't there be a huge hole in the rail if you pull one injector out?

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

I might buy a block tester to check your theory! Thanks for your advice...

Yeh they were brand new. Even looked new - I knew they were shit injectors but needed something temporarily. You guys think it's a good idea to remove the first injector and then plug it in and crank car over to physically make sure petrol is getting squirted out of the injector? A bit of a big job to swap 1st and 2nd injectors as they are side feed and I'd have to remove the plenum. :)

You can change injectors without taking plenum off just need to take T/b off. I would say swap them small job for ruling something out.

SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Won't there be a huge hole in the rail if you pull one injector out?

Hahahaha... I obviously didn't think that through!

I might try removing the TB and swapping the injectors around. I'll keep you guys filled in - thanks for the help!

nicksamaniac Collaborator

nicksamaniac

Posted
Posted

If you want to rule out the headgasket, there is a chemical test you use on the radiator to see if combustion chemicals (namely hydrocarbons) are entering the cooling system.

I've used this on a diesel patrol and it's a good way to easily test instead of removing the head if it is ok.

I got mine from Nissan (test kit). But i Borrowed the tool that screws onto the filler neck for the kit to fit into.

bit like a pressure test tool.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

If you want to rule out the headgasket, there is a chemical test you use on the radiator to see if combustion chemicals (namely hydrocarbons) are entering the cooling system.

I've used this on a diesel patrol and it's a good way to easily test instead of removing the head if it is ok.

I got mine from Nissan (test kit). But i Borrowed the tool that screws onto the filler neck for the kit to fit into.

bit like a pressure test tool.

These kits are actually looking for dissolved CO2, not hydrocarbons.

  • Like 1
SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update and questions...

Ecu is not my problem - tried a working ecu and it still dropped the cylinder.

Tested coolant for exhaust fumes... The test came back negative for exhaust fumes.

Tested injector driver voltages... Injectors 2-6 have a voltage (on the driver wire) of 14.3-14.7, however injector 1 (which relates to the dropping cylinder) had a voltage of 12.8-13.7.

I have no idea how voltage relates to injector timing and tried to search but found the information was way too technical for me! Does anybody know if this could be causing the cylinder to misfire???

Thanks for the help guys!

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Low voltage will increase the latency and reduce the total opening, leading to slightly less fuel in total, but it shouldn't miss that badly. But low voltage static might indicate a bad joint or something that will drop the voltage further when it's under load (ie when the injector coil is earthed and operating).

SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Injector voltage is critical to their operation so I would be looking further into that. Perhaps the ground side is earthing slightly, which may cause the injector to leak.

I managed to get lucky in the sense that for about 1 minute the car stop misfiring and it gave me time to check that voltage... I've discovered that when the car stopped misfiring the injector voltage went back up to around 14.3-14.7.

It seems as though I've located where the problem is... Now it's a matter of trying to solve it.

I'll keep you guys updated. Cheers :)

SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've found my issue - faulty injector. If I give it a few love taps, the voltage rises up to normal and it works fine.

Anyone care to explain why that would be happening (for educational purposes) and is there any home fixes or do I have to replace it?

SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh I definitely will - don't ever wanna go through the headache again!

Thanks to anybody who contributed to the thread...

For future purposes and research, voltages on the injectors should be checked as it turns out a drop of 0.3 volts can cause a whole cylinder to drop!

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      eBay "Hella" oil level sensor

      By PranK · Posted

      Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • Kinkstaah
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • TurboTapin
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...