Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I live in QLD and am interested in getting an evo from these guys in Sydney. There are SO many mixed opinions on the dealership so I just thought I would get a bit of food for thought.

I have found an Evo8MR I am interested in and of course the pictures look immaculate. Fish oil/tyreshine and cheap polish does not impress me and I can look past that, but I am suss on a couple of things that may just be the norm for imports.

It is advertised as a stock MR, and it essentially is bar boost gauge and ARC manifold cover. The engine bay on the other hand has an aftermarket blitz radiator. It just seems weird to have a basically stock car with an upgraded radiator. Is this something common on imported cars from Japan? My first thoughtrs were a decent front end crash but I wouldn't think they would chuck an expensive radiator in as a cover up, unless blitz radiators are falling from the heavens in japan which they probably are.

Sorry for the rant lads just need some input on the matter.

The carsale advertisement is below

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Mitsubishi-Lancer-2004/AGC-AD-15110778/?Cr=4&sdmvc=1

Yeah I used them to get my 34R, they are ok from my dealing. The car was in great nick and was stock as exept for a few suprise parts which worked out well for me. (sard cat was a plesent surprise.)

As for the the blitz radiator, Some cars have really crap radiators stock and (the 34R was one) and Blitz radiators are pretty cheap. So that could explain that.

Still be wary of them. Ask for Auction sheet and dereg certificates. If they say "we don't have them" or they are stored away with the roads authority assume the KM's are not genuine...... Lets be honest, I've seen R35's with more than 43,000 k's on the clock.

Hard because you are in a diff state, but there are services out there that you can pay to have someone go over the car with a paint thickness meter. Will tell you alot about the car!

Looks like a nice car from the advert, but it's always smoke and mirrors when selling a car. Notice they have advertised it for $31, "888". A common "Lucky number" in Asian culture, so they are trying to appeal with marketing gimmicks.

Use a broker man.

Phil from Direct Imported or Kristian, Iron Chef.

Phil is at auction every other day and can personally inspect cars for you.

  • Like 1

Get it imported from a reputable importer (I used Iron Chef Imports - very happy)

I am still on the Chef's facebook and he has loads of good EVO's coming through almost daily.

Much safer and much better oversight over the Japan side of the process. You will be told whether the kms are genuine or whether there is some 'concern' in that area, you will get the auction sheets, you will have access to wide variety of stock and they will find you colour and grade that you want for a good price.

If you are prepared to wait for the right car - its the only way.

I'd never get an import any other way.

pm me if you want more details on what I went through to get my car.....

Cheers

The Baron - unashamed Iron Chef fan

  • Like 1

All good advice above and i'm sure via PM etc... given Mr. Pav is genuinely interested surely wouldn't be hard to get hold of the VIN/chassis number from the dealer - someone post it up and lets see what is really on offer here.

THAT dealer with 30-40K kms? Alarm bells.

Almost all their cars have kms around those numbers.

Previous research has shown that the 1 from the front of the odometer has often fallen off.

Quality importer as everyone has said. Not necessarily the cheapest option but prob the best.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Personally i wouldnt touch are car from Parramatta road. Have a look on fdrx7.com, they have been checking vins and found lots of cars that had changed kms and history of accidents.

Ask for auction sheet and deregistration certificate. If they cant provide, walk away. They may tell you that they dont come with these but this is not true.

Edited by BigWillieStyles
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey mate i was there a couple of week back helping a friend look for an evo. Very rough cars to saay the least. Dodgy rattle can patch ups on the undercarriages to cover what i assume to be surface rust, over spray in wheel arches etc.... My advice would be to go down and have a look for yourself.

I personally wouldnt buy a car from there, very untrustworthy mob. I know a whole bunch of evo blokes that bought their cars from there and managed to get their hands on the japaneses de-reg papers and lets just say some of them are considering taking legal action.

Edited by evo_nick
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Guys,

I'm on the hunt for a mint R33 GTR V-Spec to import. I have spoken to a couple well known Parramatta Rd importers as well as a Blacktown importer and they both explained their processes which were very similar. Can someone PM details of a Sydney based broker/importer that you recommend?

PS. I have sent an email to Phil and Kristian.

Much appreciated!

Edited by QRI05E
  • Like 1

I agree definitely steer clear of sports auto group I ALMOST bought an evo 8 that had been in an accident from them & they were chasing premium price. Bought an evo 9 for $800 more with genuine K's & full service history instead. Sam the Salesman also tried telling me I couldn't get my $500 deposit back took almost 2 weeks to get it back I had to pay him a visit & lets just say I had to "demand it back" scumbags!

That could actually be the evo I nearly bought!

Also after I put the deposit down he told me the factory BBS wheels weren't included in the sale of the car.

Edited by Mick_o
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Has anyone noticed that EVO values have taken a hit in the past few months?

Could it be that importers (especially along a busy road in Sydney), who were once trusted by the naive, are now approached with much more caution - and thus, the price slump?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...