Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it is LVT (low value threshold), so applies irrespective of where it originates from. if currently under $1000 then no duty/ gst - but will change.

Going to cost them more to police than what it's really worth.

Hopefully doesn't go ahead or it seriously bites them in the ass.

Gerry Harvey is a greedy piece of shit. Was ok when his large business drove smaller retailers out of business.

The right thing to do is have a dirtbike for the dirt and a roadbike for the road.

How does that translate?

We need different rules for different situations, not one rule for all trade.

Yes its more work to figure it all out, but that is what has to be done.

Guess what happens if plumbers take shortcuts to simplify things?

You get shit in your drinking water.

  • Like 1

Going to cost them more to police than what it's really worth.

Hopefully doesn't go ahead or it seriously bites them in the ass.

Gerry Harvey is a greedy piece of shit. Was ok when his large business drove smaller retailers out of business.

yes - you are correct. it will cost more to administer than what is collected (apparently $500 is the balance point, below that and it is costing more. go figure)

Going to cost them more to police than what it's really worth.

Hopefully doesn't go ahead or it seriously bites them in the ass.

Gerry Harvey is a greedy piece of shit. Was ok when his large business drove smaller retailers out of business.

Absolurely agreed Kat, when he was doing it to others (which I have seen many times) it was ok and he had a smile all over his face, but now it's being done to him .... yep he's "a greedy piece of shit".

BTW .. that's another store I do my best to avoid, up there with Woolies .. :yes:

Edited by THE34T

Absolurely agreed Kat, when he was doing it to others (which I have seen many times) it was ok and he had a smile all over his face, but now it's being done to him .... yep he's "a greedy piece of shit".

BTW .. that's another store I do my best to avoid, up there with Woolies .. :yes:

Me too. And where possible I refuse to buy Woolies brand even if it's cheaper since they're doing away with our extra choices for their crap!

  • Like 1

The role I perform to earn a crust involves importing over a thousand shipments a year, by air and sea, from 18 origins around the world. After nearly thirty years dealing with Australian Customs, a few things have become quite clear:

Most Customs people are barely literate and wombats generally have higher IQ's.

Most Customs people fancy themselves as "important people".

Have wet dreams thinking about having black shirts with SS on their collars.

...And almost ALL Customs people will sprout ANY bullsh!t to try and make themselves appear intelligent / superior / competent / informed / etc.

The return in revenue compared to the cost of screening necessitates a threshold. Besides, if a consignment matches predetermined criteria - say, from a high risk country to a private address - it is already checked regardless of the value declared anyway, even it comes with the postman!

I'm not saying the policy won't change, but I have heard so much crap from so many Customs people for so long, I worry about things when they happen. Certainly not when it is "planned" to happen.

(Good on you GTRKat....that's how I feel about Woolies too!!)

I too am very sceptical about it. Writing a policy doesn't mean it's going to be happening. OP should know that if he works in the APS.

Correct, cost of administering it overweighs the revenue. The intergrated cargo system ( the program that CBP uses to administer tariffs and taxes) is pushed to the limit already, is hard to use, and antiquated. It does, however, work.

Now, how and who pays?

How do you tax the mail/postal system, that doesn't use ICS?

Where do you store 1000s of tons of goods that haven't been paid for yet? I know fedex, ups, dhl sure don't have the facilities to store them. Space on wharves are at a premium, and CBP doesn't own any warehouses.

If and when you will find it here

This is current in relation to Duty/GST

It's the Federal Treasury that wants online shoppers to pay for ALL goods under $1000 to be paid during the "check out" process.

-> Administered by the Global "e-tailers" .....

It's been on the cards since mid 2012. With Abbott in who knows for sure it wont happen ?

Gee, eye-opening to see the amount of friendly people we have here on the SAU 'community'. I post something to inform and people want to shoot me down in flames. :down: I don't come here to be judged keyboard warriors, so - up yours. I'm not interested in being on a forum with sh1tbags thinking they can make calls about people they do not know.

Time to close the thread - it isn't going anywhere useful.

  • Like 1

It does seem like people have shot the messenger here. But, from what a lot of people are saying is that they make their living off importing, which is understandable to be upset but not towards Danooh.

Thanks for informing me about the could-be changes, any heads up is a good heads up. - I am lucky enough to hardly import anything in as I prefer buying local when I can.

No one shot the messenger.

Dont feel like its your fault, your not Tony Abbot are you?

And what do you expect anyway?

No ones happy about it, maybe you should have not said anything.

Ps: Everyone judges everyone all day every day, its human nature.

DANOOH,

If you took my post as personal I do apologise.

After a lot of years of interaction, my tolerance to certain Government departments is virtually non existent.

Unless you're the decision maker in Australian Customs, we're cool.

  • Like 1

DANOOH i dont think people are mad at you or all the comments you see are directed to the policy makers. The only thing i read about you is that you should probably know that not every policy will be applied. As far as the other comments i dont think theyre directed to you its a rant/raged discussion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...