Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys that HKS GTRS is really just a GT2871R with a 52 trim compressor . Comes on song at 3700 on an SR20 ? My US SR contacts claim the larger HKS GT3037 52T spools at 25-2700 rpm and would easily out gun a GTRS . The 3037's are using the T25/28 flanged .73 ARR HKS GT30 exhaust housing and usually the RNN14 GTiR exhaust manifold .

That GT3071R at the GCG site is not the same as the one from ATP turbo in this string . The only way to make it work properly is with the HKS GT30 style exhaust housings . All the ones using GT28 exhaust housings are dogs - wrong type of turbine housing for the turbine .

Cheers A .

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Those who have interest in the gt30 rb or vg hybrid.

There's a thread floating around where some one had a vg30 turbine housing machined up to suit their gcg highflow. If I remember correctly they went from 240 something rwkw to 270 something rwkw.

I plan to do similiar using a GT30 700177-7 CHRA and .6 Comp cover machined up in to the VG30DET/R34 turbine housing.

Hopefully push 18-20psi through it.

Or... there is also the GT30 700177-14 CHRA that runs the larger comp wheel. The only issue with this is I am unsure if there is a .6 comp cover available for it. I really don't want to run a .7 due to clearance issues.

Edited by Cubes

Why is choosing a turbo so hard?? ;)

I don't know a lot on turbo figures and everyone has something different to say - GCG say the turbo would be good for an RB25DET with RB25 turbine housing.

- discopotato who seems to know his stuff doesn't suggest it as a good combination

- My tuner can't see anything wrong with the GT3071R and can get me a good price including the flanges and adaptors and everything

lol it's all too hard.... *confused*

Now that we know someone has made 250kw @ wheels with a GT3071R on an RB20DET (other thread) with full boost by 4000rpm, we can agree that the GT3071R is a good unit?

I have a VG30DET housing, this can be machined out to fit the GT30 turbine wheel happily enough - and the GT3071R comes with a .5a/r TO4E compressor housing.... shouldn't this combination be able to fit down low easier than the GT30R low mount described in that other thread, and provide some awesome performance for an RB25DET?

It sounds like the GT3071R-WG (w/ cut down turbine) was a good combo for the RB20DET.

well, I currently am running a GT30r with a VG30 housing machined to fit.

Currently running 200rwkw at 7psi, lol. Still waiting FOR MY f**kEN INJECTORS.

lol anyway, I Will be sure to let you know how this goes.

The comp Cover is a .7

On an SR20 what boost are they most efficient at? about 1.1 bar or more?

The GT-RS is a little high for my liking. If you could strap one to an un-opened motor and get a safe 220rwkw at max efficiency or close to it, I think they would be an awesome option for street use.

Hmm I'm starting to look more into a GCG Hi-flow now..

I just want my 250rwkws dammit!! :)

dude,

the garrett GT3071R (external w/gate version) will flow enough air to make 250rwkw happily.

the comp wheel itself can flow up to ~450bhp, and the turbine is the 60mm GT30 wheel which flows ~500bhp easily.

the GT3071R with A/R .82 on an RB25DEt would be a killer combination IMHO.

good luck anyway.

I just took off 3071 internal gate turbo from my r32 gtst as it was shit... couldn't control boost kept going in excess of 22psi. Made good power up high 254 at 8250rpm. Dog under 4000rpm and only exciting from 5000rpm.

External gate on rb25 would be ok, internal gate - forget it. Rb20 forget it.

hows it feel on 7psi? N/A like? :rolleyes:

lol actually, the car is much punchier down low with this turbo, as it must be able to breathe easier because the turbine isn't creating as much resistance being a ball bearing.

and I said, 7psi = about 200rwkw... Its definately not N\A like... With a good launch, chirps all the way through second :)

I just took off 3071 internal gate turbo from my r32 gtst as it was shit...  couldn't control boost kept going in excess of 22psi.  Made good power up high 254 at 8250rpm.  Dog under 4000rpm and only exciting from 5000rpm.

External gate on rb25 would be ok, internal gate - forget it.  Rb20 forget it.

I'm running an internal gate. No problems here.. With the wastegate completely open, it makes a max of 3psi boost.

Edited by The Mafia

Mafia,

I found the same thing, upon fitting the larger turbo it has free'd up the bottom end, feels freeier and tends to free rev quiker also.

More off the line let the clutch out torque. :rolleyes:

What I meant by N/A like, so its not linear then? lags a little then hits solid and pulls?

What I meant by N/A like, so its not linear then? lags a little then hits solid and pulls?

Team america - f**k YEAH

hehe

yeah pulls harder off boost, but then catches boost and starts chirping in second lol

so yeah, hit boost and starts going like your mum - an animal

(hehehe jokes)

I wouldn't say its like na at all

Roy - I'd misread the full boost thing.... though he did say 14psi by 4000rpm, which is pretty decent spool, no? This is bearing in mind that RB20DETs don't spool turbos overly well, and need a few revs to go - I'd imagine (as Quincy said...) that one should go very nicely on an RB25DET.

Mafia - Do you know if there were any modifications to the VG30 wastegate port to allow it to hold boost like that? Are you using a Garrett supplied actuator with it?

I'd say you hit the nail on the head Cubes , if a turbine side is causing a major restriction uncorking it pays off . It makes me wonder if the small turbine and housing combination had some emissions benefit - sort of heat and a little forced EGR .

Notice how at times larger ARR turbine housings pull the cork out and unleashes a few ponies with no change to the compressor or cover . I guess it comes down to how well the sysyem was designed in the first place and its aims .

The combination I always wanted to see on an RB20 was the 25 exhaust housing on an otherwise std turbo , how much gained compared to how much lost . At least it should all fit and look standard .

The GT3071R (-23 CHRA) is biased toward exhaust flow turbine wise so may not need big housings to make it work depending on the desired state of tune and engine size .

Roy - I'd misread the full boost thing.... though he did say 14psi by 4000rpm, which is pretty decent spool, no?  This is bearing in mind that RB20DETs don't spool turbos overly well, and need a few revs to go - I'd imagine (as Quincy said...) that one should go very nicely on an RB25DET.

Mafia - Do you know if there were any modifications to the VG30 wastegate port to allow it to hold boost like that?  Are you using a Garrett supplied actuator with it?

no modifications what so ever to the waste gate port. And I am running the garret actuator with it.

No problems. With the gate fully open, the most boost it will make is 4psi, max.

I've got a GT30R To go on a RB20 and I am abit worred it is going to be to big and laggy???.

Specs are .7 front cover 58mm wheel and rear housing 0.63 56mm wheel.

Dont know why i was sold such a big front cover? and it is internerly gated,

Any one got any idear when it would come on boost and what have other people got on there RB20's, what kind of power will it make-230 or so on 1 bar?

It would be great if any one could help me out, Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...