Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I saw 900 degree manifold temps regularly at the track, all with a beanie on. The car has done 6 hard track days and daily driving for many years without issue.

As long as the CHRA is water cooled you should be fine.

Thanks for clearing it up. When I baught my beanie off hpiab they said remove it after hard driving and whilst racing to reduce the risk of damage to bearings. I thought why sell me that if it Can damage the turbo.

Whats the go with HPC? when I had my manifold and housing done I really couldn't tell the difference, I mean even if temps are down

1000c to 800c for example, its still bloody hot, retaining that extra heat might even cause the manifold to crack from the inside

out?? Maybe on a track car it sounds plausible but on a street car things wouldn't get hot enough??

Aparently beanies can lead to internal bearing damage if left on and raced with. No idea how. Hpc coating increases thermal efficiency in the turbo which leads to better response. Plus if you hpc coat it silver the chicks will flock... hard. But in all seriousness when I do go a steampipe manifold ill be hpc coating the manifold and turbo housing. Looks good, doesn't get that rusted look from heat, serves a purpose.

This. Just do it and rest assured it's an asset to your build. I've always HPC coated my exhaust components (if the wallet permitted I'd do the entire system ;) ) but my turbo manifold, ex housing and dump pipe/wastegate plumb is all coated. Granted, it is still hot (but greatly reduced) and you can feel that under the engine bay... but consider this... what would it be like without it? Whilst off, definitely beneficial if you can afford it.

Edited by Reflector

But he already has a beanie, so it's a total waste of cash. I would only ever recommend it for mild steel exhausts to prolong their (short) life.

DEI Beanie and DEI Ti wrap the dump (for stainless) is the best shield against heat I have found so far, and I have used most other styles of heat barriers.

Im not saying it for heat shielding. im saying to hpc coat it to retain the heat inside the turbo exhaust to improve thermal efficiency. Yes it helps shield heat but im aiming at the heat retention in the turbo. i was running a turbo beanie untill a poorly made oil line burst and filled it full of oil. now it wont stop smoking. its like i have bob marley under my bonnet.

Hmm iv hit a wall! I bought what I was told was a gt3076 .82 rear but it does not seem to fit the wheel?!?

Here are some pics. What have a bought and maybe my turbo isn't what it should be?!?

Hmm iv hit a wall! I bought what I was told was a gt3076 .82 rear but it does not seem to fit the wheel?!?

Here are some pics. What have a bought and maybe my turbo isn't what it should be?!?

post-22485-0-62881100-1392943926_thumb.jpg

post-22485-0-85208100-1392943967_thumb.jpg

post-22485-0-20695100-1392944083_thumb.jpg

Do yourself a favour and ignore what the tag on the core says for a moment... Measure the turbine at its largest diameter and see if its 60mm or 56.5mm.

ARTZ had a turbo from a reputable resaler which was labelled a 3071, but when we measured up it had a 56.5mm turbine and a 76mm T04S compressor. It was more likely they had rebuilt it and simply neglected to update the tag. Or built a custom turbo from whatever they had around... Who knows.

Its possible that its for a 35R, as the housings are identical on the outside. You should still measure your turbine though.

Once you measure the turbine you will know if you A: have the wrong turbo for that housing, or B: have the wrong housing for that turbo.

You must measure first.

Edited by GTScotT

True: the photo's clearly show its wrong. SO, the task is now to work out what housing he actually needs and who's responsibility the wrong housing is.

In A: the seller did nothing wrong and OP needs to wear it or ask nicely to return, in B: seller needs to give OP a refund as he misrepresented the product.

Edited by GTScotT

Highly likely a EWG housing for a GT3582R , probably the easiest thing is to measure the ID of the housing and if it comes out a little over 61mm that sort of gives the game away . A GT30 turbine from memory measures ~ 54.9mm at the exducer (outlet diameter) so a matching housing would be that plus clearance .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...