Radiator Suggestions

[Dale FZ1]

Ensure there is a decent seal around the gaps between radiator and the support panels, so that air has to pass through the core rather than allow leakage to flow around it into the engine bay. Single sided adhesive rubber/foam stripping works wonders even if it looks low-rent

[GTSBoy]

+ seal the gaps between the intercooler core and the edges of the radiator + make sure that the air cannot escape out the bottom, either between the cooler and the rad or before the cooler + make sure the bonnet seal is at least close to the rad support panel. Once you start trying to do this stuff, the list just gets longer and longer.

[Dale FZ1]

Yes it can be (is) fiddly and time consuming, but it pays off with far fewer overheating issues at high load / high speed.

[iruvyouskyrine]

So nothing i did worked. For the record this is with a GKtech fan and 52mm alloy ebay radiator.

The car would get 6-7 laps in then just overheat. Once the temperature cracked 100deg it would continue all the way to 120 (which was where my water temp gauge finishes) and just sit there, presumably still increasing in temperature. Sitting in the pits pouring water over the top radiator tank and spraying a mist over the entire surface of the radiator and intercooler letting it idle trying to get it to cool down. Even that would not drop the temps to below 110 degrees.

Removed the thermostat and nothing changed. Changed to a larger radiator (still ebay special) and nothing changed. Once it got past 100 degrees there was absolutely zero stopping the temperature from continuing to increase. I drove at 3-4000 RPM to try and get the clutch fan to cool the engine down, drove at about 80km/h in 5th gear using as little RPM as possible to try and cool it down, but honestly nothing worked.

I also fully flushed the engine block forwards and backwards, the same with the radiator. Used brand new coolant every time and fully bled the system properly before each time on track. Tried both a .9 bar and 1.1 bar radiator cap.

I am thinking it may have done a headgasket when it overheated the first time, and subsequently leakes pressure into the cooling system pushing all the coolant out of the system, as my overflow was filling each and every time. It doesn't show any signs of a blown headgasket (oil in water) but i haven't done a compression test yet to confirm.

Any thoughts appreciated.

[Dale FZ1]

A decent radiator works or mechanic will have an analyser that detects exhaust gases in coolant. Easy test to do in conjunction with your compression test will resolve whether you have any HG issues.

The GK Tech fan did not get good wraps from others here who had (evidently) tried them. Try an OEM fan and clutch centre.

Post up a few pics of the engine bay as you have run the thing. Want to see what ducting / shrouds you do / don't have in place.

[GTSBoy]

It is my impression that the GKTech fan is designed to move less air and pull less power off the front of the engine. I might be wrong, but at least on a superficial inspection the blades of the GKTech fan look like they have a lot less bite and surface area than the original RB fan. They look exactly like what you would design of you were trying to reduce flow and noise.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

^ installed a GKTech fan on my friends S15

water temps are now higher

not to mention there's less surface area on the GKtech fan, so in my head (minus all the theory and calculations) it would move less air than the stock fan.

[iruvyouskyrine]

All I know is that I am sick of the thing overheating. Where is the best place to get a koyorad?

Will see if headgasket is fubar, if yes go MLS. Replace water pump, new koyorad and put shroud and standard fan back on. If that doesn't keep it cool then I obviously have a major issue somewhere else.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

^ eBay, there are local dealers there that are cheaper than sponsor dealers.

[iruvyouskyrine]

Link me?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

yezzzzzz:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RADIATOR-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-GTR-GTS-RB20DET-RB26DETT-KOYO-RACING-53mm-MANUAL-/190588496012?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5ff5a88c

free delivery too, I've bought 2 radiators off this guy (for a corolla and an accord) delivered next day.. just like magic HAHA

[34GeeTeeTee]

So nothing i did worked. For the record this is with a GKtech fan and 52mm alloy ebay radiator.

The car would get 6-7 laps in then just overheat. Once the temperature cracked 100deg it would continue all the way to 120 (which was where my water temp gauge finishes) and just sit there, presumably still increasing in temperature. Sitting in the pits pouring water over the top radiator tank and spraying a mist over the entire surface of the radiator and intercooler letting it idle trying to get it to cool down. Even that would not drop the temps to below 110 degrees.

Removed the thermostat and nothing changed. Changed to a larger radiator (still ebay special) and nothing changed. Once it got past 100 degrees there was absolutely zero stopping the temperature from continuing to increase. I drove at 3-4000 RPM to try and get the clutch fan to cool the engine down, drove at about 80km/h in 5th gear using as little RPM as possible to try and cool it down, but honestly nothing worked.

I also fully flushed the engine block forwards and backwards, the same with the radiator. Used brand new coolant every time and fully bled the system properly before each time on track. Tried both a .9 bar and 1.1 bar radiator cap.

I am thinking it may have done a headgasket when it overheated the first time, and subsequently leakes pressure into the cooling system pushing all the coolant out of the system, as my overflow was filling each and every time. It doesn't show any signs of a blown headgasket (oil in water) but i haven't done a compression test yet to confirm.

Any thoughts appreciated.

G E T R I D O F T H E G K T E C H F A N

I had heat issues for the first time ever after replacing the fan from stock to GKTECH, changed them back last weekend and test at SMSP and temps are back to perfect!

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

^ didn't I say something similar before?

[34GeeTeeTee]

^ didn't I say something similar before?

STFU

Yeah yeah i should have listened to others BEFORE i put it on lolz

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

hahahaha...

my gate & turbo is on.. it's awesome scaring off Hondas

[scotty nm35]

All working well Johnny? How long before you lean on the tune?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Sure is Scotty, running 0.9bar off Toshi's remap and retarded the CAS by 2 degrees for safe measure.

His map runs 16 and tops off at 19 degrees of timing on the last load column, so pulling off 2 degrees on the CAS will give me 14 and 17 up top (more than safe enough). However it's doughy as shit when it comes on boost, it's way too damn rich (as it's referencing incorrect load points) haha

Don't worry, will be getting a new ECU soon enough been lazy and spent my car money booking a holiday instead so more delays to the sietbox lol

[34GeeTeeTee]

Sure is Scotty, running 0.9bar off Toshi's remap and retarded the CAS by 2 degrees for safe measure.

His map runs 16 and tops off at 19 degrees of timing on the last load column, so pulling off 2 degrees on the CAS will give me 14 and 17 up top (more than safe enough). However it's doughy as shit when it comes on boost, it's way too damn rich (as it's referencing incorrect load points) haha

Don't worry, will be getting a new ECU soon enough been lazy and spent my car money booking a holiday instead so more delays to the sietbox lol

[GTSBoy]

However it's doughy as shit when it comes on boost, it's way too damn rich (as it's referencing incorrect load points) haha

Why/how is it referencing incorrect load points? RPM measured is correct. AFM is reading the amount of air correctly.

If it's doughy because of the 2° retard, then it's just doughy because of the 2° retard.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Why/how is it referencing incorrect load points? RPM measured is correct. AFM is reading the amount of air correctly.

If it's doughy because of the 2° retard, then it's just doughy because of the 2° retard.

that remap was made for a stock turbo, it's hitting load points never hit with a stock turbo

coming on boost it's dropping down to 11:1, hence it feels like shit..

however this is just a bandaid till I get off my arse and decide what ECU to get and actually install it.. I've been really lazy with the car lately, took me 5 weeks to install a turbo so you get the idea.

Imagine when I do get a standalone, I probably would be too lazy to tune it properly and set the fuel slow convergence on haha