Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Been looking to have my forward facing plenum installed and immediately run into this potential issue. I have been looking at the cheapest possible way to do this and it seems you can buy the kits on ebay for cheapish, roughly $100 less than quoted by a shop. The battery itself I can't get away with cheaply but just seeing if anyone here is an Auto Electrician and could possibly do the work for a cheaper price.

This is the kit

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Battery-relocation-Kit-Suits-most-cars-Nissan-Holden-Toyota-Subaru-Ford-Project-/111270401141?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e83b9475&_uhb=1

It was something I had not budgeted for so trying to get as cheap as possible so I can get the car to Jez to do the rest.

Thanks

Liam

Edited by FordyR31

Hey Liam,

The first battery box you linked aren't worth is and as Braden said they don't last long. Depending on how you mount it they aren't very sturdy.

You should consider a Moroso box instead, slightly cheaper. These will bolt directly through the boot floor and are completely sealed with a rubber gasket around the lid. There's also a ventilation tube that will run through the floor (ADR friendly). Also there's a bracket to hold the battery down so it won't rattle around.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/moroso-sealed-plastic-battery-box-13-5-x-11-250-x-9-625-black-mo74051-/140804014395

I had one in my prelude for a few years. Never an issue.

Hey mate im no auto elec but i am a mechanic, have done the relocation in my 32 track car. If you want a hand im in blacktown area in sydney. Can come to you or you can come to my workshop (preferred) and we can fit it. Let me know via pm you can check my race car out and how i did that one see if that what you want :) You will also need to supply proper earth and power cable, you will need about 5-6m of positive cable and negative if you want them both connected to original position. Some U clips to secure the cable, and some short self tapping screws and 2 new battery terminals. Probably $100 worth of stuff there.

Saturdays are best for me at the shop as boss isnt in. Ill charge you a case of jack daniels and a helping hand :) will need to remove carpet, seats front and back to hide it properly :) possibly center console to.

It sounds like a bigger job than I had thought. Thanks for the offer. Let me get the gear together and we can go from there. Thanks! A case of jack and a helping hand is deffinitely a good price for labour. I'll try to organise a battery before anything. Most of the kits I have seen (for reference) have a shorter earth cable and about 5m of Power cable. Both are 32mm2. Does the Earth need to go to the original or is it just easier that way?

I have the same type of box as in first pic but just use a similar kit to this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/110767463356?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&lpid=94 to hold the battery down so it doesn't move.

Works fine, has been in the car for 3-4 years!

get one of these:

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42001

Cops cannot complain, strong and also has a vent if you're not using a deep cycle/AGM/sealed battery.

Cheapest way around it is to buy MIG cable from like BOC or so.. it's equivalent to 2GA cable and is more than enough to start your car, you can get 2GA terminals from JayCar on the cheap (those alloy ones) and get a nice 120amp ANL blade fuse holder.

I did something like that years ago, however the moroso battery box was over $200+ back in the days, they're like $115 on eBay now delivered :)

** lol Owen beat me to it

Yah its a bigger job when the car still has full interior. As you may see in my race car i had nothing lol. So was much more simple to run the cable.

This will give you an idea of what i did. Ignore the amp cable as it was the cheapest option at the time and i dont use the car every day. Just scroll down to see pics.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/395756-cals-budget-32-build/page-3

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/395756-cals-budget-32-build/page-7

The second link has the cable secured properly and shows the types of u clamps im talking about :)

I am in two minds as to wheather I should buy good box and cheaper battery that will do the job or just buy a decent battery to begin with. I have a mate getting back to me with some prices of the parts I need and seems like I will be able to buy those shortly, then work out which will be the best battery/boxed setup for me. The positive cable I am getting a price for is 0 guage and 00 for the earth.

Luke, I did click your link to the track car last night and had a look. I read somewhere in that thread a suggestion to run the cable underneath the car. Would this be the better option? Sounds quicker also?

Thanks everyone, very helpful.

This is for my HR31 Coupe. Basically whatever can do the job. I have the cash for the mods already, just not so much the battery bit. I plan on doing more track days this year so this D34 sounds ideal and cheaper than I expected for something that would do the job well, if it can be mounted sideways or upside down I'm pretty confident it shouldn't leak the right way up over a few bumps.

I am in two minds as to wheather I should buy good box and cheaper battery that will do the job or just buy a decent battery to begin with. I have a mate getting back to me with some prices of the parts I need and seems like I will be able to buy those shortly, then work out which will be the best battery/boxed setup for me. The positive cable I am getting a price for is 0 guage and 00 for the earth.

Luke, I did click your link to the track car last night and had a look. I read somewhere in that thread a suggestion to run the cable underneath the car. Would this be the better option? Sounds quicker also?

Thanks everyone, very helpful.

I would worry more about the box it's held in rather than the battery itself if you're not running a 1200 watt sound system and just need something to crank the engine over.

Also watch out for 0 guage with the battery clamps. Not many places have the clamps for that size, a few audio system places should have them though. Maybe check Carbon Car Systems in Blacktown.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...