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If you didn't already have it I wouldn't buy it to start with . Better I think to have a Japanese made Nissan if you like the brand . VLs are old an thin on the ground now and I reckon the only reason you'd get an RB powered Dore is if you really like live axles . You get so much more out of R series Skylines for the money and the end result tends to be better . If I wasn't carting people around I'd look for an R32 with the RB25DE in it , I think it was called 25GT or similar .

R200 IRS , four piston brakes fall in , huge choice of wheels . Upgrades galore and heaps of spares around reasonably cheap .

Your call , A .

Just to clarify; you keep saying DE and DET, which means twin cam. The D is for Double overhead cam. A twin cam RB30 is a custom made thing, not found in any STOCK cars.

I'll assume you have a VL Turbo because you haven't actually told us what you have..

If you have a VLT with the factory motor (RB30ET), you can drop in an NA or R31 RB30E and legally drive around. This is legal because the car was available with that option.

If you have something that did not come with an RB30 from stock it will be illegal to put one in and drive it on your Ps.

Its been said before but it is definitely going to be easier to sell the turbo car as it is, or put it away for now, and buy a decent P plate mobile to see you through. 100% easier, less heartache, and you won't devalue the car you own now.

Just to clarify; you keep saying DE and DET, which means twin cam. The D is for Double overhead cam. A twin cam RB30 is a custom made thing, not found in any STOCK cars.

It did appear in 1 car :)

Tommy Kaira M30

Edited by 89CAL

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? 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