Possible Coil Pack Issue - Or Something Worse?

[lego]

Hey all,

About two months ago, I had a bit if a miss around 4500 rpm, nothing major, just a bit of a flutter that would be gone after a second or so. It only did it about half a dozen times and then stopped.

Today, about 300 meters before I got to work, I felt like I had NO power, it was almost like the clutch was slipping... Ducked out at lunch time and it was even worse, couldn't rev over 2500 rpm under load (in neutral she revs fine). Thinking I got some crappy fuel, I went to repco and grabbed a bottle of Nulon total fuel system cleaner. Go back out to the car, but it wouldn't start!
I spent about 5 minutes cranking it over before it spluttered to life.

I nursed it home after work with the issue, it idled fine, ran ok up until 2500 revs but anything over that it was missing badly.

Went out about an hour ago to start it to see if I could see the coils arcing out, but it wont start again!

Am I in the right direction with the replacing the coils?

Also, not to try and start an OEM vs Splitfire vs whatever discussion, but for an OEM set of coils, what kind of money am I looking at?

Right now, Splitfires are around the $550-600 mark on ebay, but OEM's are going for about $300 for a set... But I've read everywhere that OEM's are super spendy compared to Splitfires..

EG - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Nissan-Ignition-Coil-Packs-Skyline-R33-Series-2-RB25DET-R34-GTR-RB26DETT-/131004016395?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&fits=Plat_Gen%3AR33&hash=item1e8072a70b&_uhb=1

Car is stock power wise, just a Kakimoto N1 system.

Any help would be appreciated!!

[RBrennan25]

Clean your air flow metre first would be my advice. You can get a can of the cleaner from autobarn. After you've ruled that out check the gap/condition of the spark plugs. Maybe then have a look at the coils if it's still no good. Best to rule out the cheap stuff first

[Tonks]

If you can't rev it past 2500 it sounds like its in limp home mode so starting at the afm is probably your best bet. Also as well as cleaning it pull the cover off and have a look at the soldering. It may be time for a resolder.

[GTSBoy]

I'm with them. AFM first.

As to Splitfires vs OEM. OEM used to be more than Splitfire, which was why Splitfires used to be the only sensible choice. Then for a while they were about the same price.

What I would be worried about, particularly buying from eBay, is the fake OEM coils out there. There's a limit to how cheap thse things can get, and I suspect that the circa $300 sets are below that point.

[lego]

Thanks for the starting points guys!

1)

Checked all the fuses - all are fine.

2)

Pulled the afm. It wasn't gunked up, just a bit of black crap on the mesh. Regardless, I pulled it all the way out and gave it a good squirt with a residueless contact cleaner. Still no start.

Just about to try and get the coil packs out and see if I can find some cracks and silicone them up...

It cranks over, but there doesn't seem like there is any combustion. Just the starter spinning the engine.

[GTSBoy]

Fuel pressure is the other obvious place to look.

[lego]

Checked the fuel pump... fuse is fine, I can hear the relay click when someone turns the ignition on, but I can't hear any priming/humming... I'm guessing she's dead??

[GTSBoy]

Pump can run and still be stuffed, or blocked sock/filter/whatever. If you haven't put a fuel pressure gauge in the supply line before the rail, you haven't checked fuel pressure.

[WMDC35]

Could still be the afm even though it's been cleaned, try starting it with it unplugged- plugs could still be wet though

[lego]

How do I check the fuel pressure??
I've never had to deal with fuel issues before.. only with two strokes!

I am getting the smell of fuel through the cylinders when a plug is out and it's cranking

Tried starting it with the AFM unplugged - no dice.

I've just pulled all the coli packs out...

Not getting ANY spark from the plugs resting on the side of the block from any of the coil packs!!

Good power is making it all the way through the loom when cranking to the plug for each coil - around 7.6v in each plug..

[Got a Pulsar]

Is your R33 series 1 or series 2?

Series 1 has ONE ignitor to run the coils, series 2 has an ignitor on each coil.

[lego]

Sorry, I thought I had put that in the first post...

Series 2 96 gtst with 155.000 k's on the clock

[lego]

Anyone?

[scotty nm35]

Replace the AFM with a known good one. Change the plugs as it sounds like they might be fouled.

[Got a Pulsar]

Check ALL Fuses and Relays. Even disconnect and reconnect the ECU.

I discovered I had a relay in the 31 playing up. Fuel pump would not always prime but once it did, the car would start and run fine.

Replaced the Relay and it's been perfect ever since.

[GTRPSI]

When all the above fails, check the CAS, no cas no start.....

[GOD12A]

I'd look more towards the fuel pump based on the info supplied.

It's rare to drop multiple coils in a short period of time.

If you fried the ignitor, it'd drop all coils at the same time.

Dying fuel pumps will usually give you a hesitation or flat spot then run fine for a bit before they actually stop. I'm not sure how/why, but many I have diagnosed have done this.

Remember; a dead fuel pump might flow fuel, but not enough pressure to drive or rev (or even start).

To test coils, get six mates to come over and let them hold a coil each as you crank it. If they all jump back and start swearing at you, your spark should be good. Check fuel system.

Testing the fuel pressure requires a gauge and some hose/fittings, which can be had for half the price of a new fuel pump.

Also check any fuel filters.

Goodluck!

Mark

[lego]

Ok. I pulled the plug for the CAS gave it a clean with afm cleaner- now I'm getting good strong spark in each coil/plug.

Replaced all plugs.

Cleaned the afm again.

Pulled all fuses and gave them a squirt with contact cleaner. All fuses look good, the ones that looked a little iffy, I replaced. Still no start.

Replaced the vacuum line for the fpr.

Replaced the fuel filter (Z200).

With the new filter plugged in, I left the hose disconnected from the fpr and tried cranking it. Not a drop came out. Shouldn't it flow out?

[scotty nm35]

Yes of course it should.

[GTSBoy]

Yes, you should get fuel from any of the fuel hoses in the engine bay with the ignition turned on and cranking. If not, something bad is happening.