Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all m35 Nismo ECU owners having an issue with the nismo ecu after install seems to idle really low and stall at the lights or sitting in traffic and has thrown a CEL.

Has anyone else had an issue with there nismo ecu idling low,stalling and throwing a code or any ideas on what the issue could be?

Cheers fellas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439280-m35-nismo-ecu-low-idle-and-stalling/
Share on other sites

Have you done an idle air reset? Every car is different, if you've just thrown in a used ECU I'd suggest that it doesn't know that your car isn't set up for what its used to. I'd give that a whirl, procedure detailed here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/275099-m35-still-stalling-not-idling-properly/#entry4662009

Ok so I did idle learn reset and all other diagnostics I could but to no avail car is still stalling.

I took out throttle body, BOV, MAF and cleaned it all, still stalls when at a stand still or coasting under 1000k. Then I took the vacuumed line off the FPR and I didn't stall as quick but inevitably still stalls after about 30-40 seconds at a stand still. So I'm stumped as to what the issue could be. Maybe MAF maybe FPR?

I thought it weird that it idles better with the vac line off the FPR though.

Any more thought gents?

Yeah it was sweet before Scotty just put in the nismo ecu and it has started stalling. I'll change back to the OEM ecu tomorrow and see how it goes but not sure why the nismo would cause it.

It's from a highly regarded m35 owner on this forum. I'm sure he wouldn't be selling shit parts as it runs well just not that great when at a standstill. It's given more low to midrange torque speed limit cut and revs higher all is sweet except the idle.

Cheers for the helpful comment davelol

Lol sorry mate didn't mean to sound like a dick!

I know brick was selling it and he's a top bloke. Did he have issues running it in his car? Think he said it was a bit rich...

When we do tunes on cars at work, whether it be a re-flash or a piggyback module, if they do what your car is doing, we always send the tuning file back and keep trying till we get a good one, or we send the module back under warranty. The point I was trying to make was, if you changed absolutely nothing else on your car except the nismo ecu and it started stalling, it's very likely an ecu problem.

Get an emanage on it, at least that way you can adjust the fuel.

No point adjusting the idle screw on an electronically controlled car. You need a consult 3 to set the idle properly, but if the AFR's are out it won't help.

Get an emanage on it, at least that way you can adjust the fuel.

No point adjusting the idle screw on an electronically controlled car. You need a consult 3 to set the idle properly, but if the AFR's are out it won't help.

Hey scotty, does that mean a nissan dealer would be able to adjust the idle?

It's from a highly regarded m35 owner on this forum. I'm sure he wouldn't be selling shit parts as it runs well just not that great when at a standstill. It's given more low to midrange torque speed limit cut and revs higher all is sweet except the idle.

Cheers for the helpful comment davelol

ECU may have run well on the sellers car but is yours exactly the same configuration... exhaust, intake, turbo etc?

Hey scotty, does that mean a nissan dealer would be able to adjust the idle?

Most probably. As long as the map is suited. If it's overfuelling then a throttle re-learn won't help much.

  • Like 1

All good dave I didn't take it as an attack. Lol

Brick was running a touch rich but was still running rich with the OEM ECU still in after. It runs ok with the vac line off the FPR which I thought was wired and not sure why that is but any ideas on that would be helpful.

Scotty I plan to go down the route of an emanage just saving up for it need to pay a few parking fines first lol.

I plan to take it to Nissan on Friday and see if they can adjust the idle through the consult. Otherwise I guess I just have to learn to have a aware right foot and manually keep the revs up where they need to be till an emanage can be sourced fitted and tuned!

But brick all idle issues aside cheers for the ecu and enjoying the better low to mid range torque and repsonse it gives!!! Thumbs up mate!!

  • Like 1

So it's running lean at idle then... Taking the vac line off at idle would richen it up I think. Perhaps it was just setup with an adjustable fuel reg initially...

I would be getting it on a dyno before anything else... Perhaps with an adjustable reg in place so you have some control over mixtures. Otherwise, go back to the stock ecu until you have the Emanage installed.

It's unusual, I would have thought the o2 sensor would have sorted it out, it must be a fair way out...

  • Like 1

So I couldn't get the car to Nissan today as worked dragged on. In the mean time I'll get my hand on a nismo FPR and gauge to adjust the pressure. What should the stock pressure be for the fuel? Is it around 30-40PSI? From memory.

I spoke to a few dyno places a while back and said they can't dyno tune my car as they don't have a suitable harness for it? Would that be the case as I thought there OBDII and most can connect to that.

Seems to have some hesitation when accelerating hard now aswel feels like air cut!? Weird!!

Cheers for the advice guys.

If no luck with Nissan and a dyno tune I'll just have to go back to OEM and wait for the emanage to get it all sorted.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...