Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Forgive me for the millionth post but I cant not find the exact answer to my question & I wanna get this right the first time.

My 34 GTT has a manual boost tee (IN - connected to intercooler pipe & OUT - to wastegate actuator). I have a profec B Spec 2 that I bought used so it has the lines off the solenoid already.

(1). From what I gather, am I on the right track in the pic below? [please ignore what I wrote about *figure3* - just found an old thread where GTSBoy explains the consequences of doing this]

photo2-EBC.jpg

(2). For the boost pressure line that comes directly off the back of the Profec unit, where do I connect this? GTSBoy said in a thread that using a tee between the FPR and manifold will increase the risk of screwing things up & therefore using the MAP sensor hose is an alternative. Just curious if I have the correct MAP Sensor pressure hose to tee into..

1911522_10201522087924612_1464874629_o.j

(3). The solenoid that I have isnt specifically labelled as "COM or 'NC/NO. It just has 1,2,3 stamped respectively. Also this EBC was used in an external gate GTR before so it took me a while to figure this out. Can someone confirm if I have the ports labelled properly..

photo4-EBC.jpg

I think thats all the questions I have. Once again, apologise if this thread is repetitive.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439460-profec-b-install-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

If no one has answered this before the weekend is over then I'll post pics when I get back home to my car on Sunday.

It will be one line running to the intercooler nipple and one running to the actuator. The booklet should tell you what part on the boost controller to plug these both into.

Then just run a T piece into that line running off the back of the manifold and put your vac into that and into the profec

Just checked the instructions.

NO port goes to the boost source aka the nipple on your cooler pipe.

COM port goes to your actuator on the turbo.

The other NC port left should be blocked off.

Check this article

Your setup should be like page 5

And instructions on the ports is on page 9

Use the page numbers down the bottom left

http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/PRofec_Bspec2.pdf

Thanks a lot mate. So its a simple remove and replace (but being very careful which way to place the solenoid.

The vac hose coming from the back of the manifold - are you referring to the MAP sensor one?

Hopefully you can throw some pics on sunday. Thanks again.

There is a nipple on the left hand side of the intake manifold, it already has a hose on it running to a small black box in the top left hand side of the engine bay (if you are standing at the front of the car looking into the engine bay).

Tee it off that line and boost away.

Edited by owen1r

Just checked the instructions.

NO port goes to the boost source aka the nipple on your cooler pipe.

COM port goes to your actuator on the turbo.

The other NC port left should be blocked off.

Check this article

Your setup should be like page 5

And instructions on the ports is on page 9

Use the page numbers down the bottom left

http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/PRofec_Bspec2.pdf

Are you sure? This is the 3rd port on the solenoid we are talking about, right? All the other diagrams/pics I've seen have left this 3rd port vented to atmo.

Thanks Owen and Daniel for all your help. Cheers.

I can't be 100% if it has to be blocked or not sorry mate. I'm working off my mental pictures haha and they aren't very clear.

I'll let you know Sunday night if no one chimes in and gives the answer.

No problemo mate. Thanks a lot :)

Managed to install the Profec B with the (3rd port vented to atmo)

Now have the issue of massive boost spikes at the high end of rev range. Might get it looked at by a tuner..

Thanks guys once again.

Have a look in the troubleshooting guide which is in the document posted previously, try lowering your start boost.

Put it all the way down to near 0 if you can, if that doesn't make a difference, lower the gain until it no longer exceeds your wanted boost.

Edited by owen1r

Start Boost = 40
Set = 0
Gain = 5% (wouldnt go any lower)

Warning = (9psi)
Limiter = 20%

Used these settings to start tuning and boost spiked to 15psi. Turned the Set up to 10% and it still spiked. Not sure what on earth is going on but I think I might have to get this looked at by a pro. Its a shame really..

Raj send me a PM with your number and i'll send photos of my setup tonight.

Then I'll let you know what my start boost etc is.

It's going to be different for every car

But at least you will get an understanding as to what 20psi settings look like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...