Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all. good to be back on here.

In the last year I have been having a problem with my front left and sometimes right wheel.

If i go into a sweeping corner at a decent speed or just going through Mount Lofty quickly my front left wheel is locking up which is terrifying!

It is not understeer as I have done countless laps on Mallallalallalala in a VE and understand understeer.

This usually happens when i either or start to brake. This is not an issue known to these cars so there is something going on.

The wheel feels like it brakes, then lets go and if i continue the corner will brake again and release. Generally the "Slip" light will flash on as it is happening.

My friends V has done the same thing sometimes but under harder cornering than when it happens to me.

I have nice lowered suspension on brand new springs and shockers. I have after market anti sway bars. And my wheel alignment has just been nailed with a brand new tyre change.

I have done a bit of research but cannot find anyone who has had this problem. Its very hard to describe.

Possibly loose brake pads, caliper is out of allignment, ABS or traction control electronic issue.

If anyone has any insight it would be fantastic as it completely kills driving my car.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439784-front-wheel-lock-on-turning/
Share on other sites

I had the exact same thing - I am willing to bet it is your lower control arm bushes. It feels like the car try to ABS pull you OUT from the corner when you are turning in, right? I replaced mine and it completely went away. If yours look like the pic below then that is your issue.

If you can be stuffed changing all of the your front bushes grab this. You will need a hydraulic or C-clamp press (which is what I used for mine) http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=5967&Car_Type=G35&UID=20140225215338219.90.234.225

I just grabbed the pair I need and did the 2 at the time.

Otherwise it would be your springs/coilovers being too stiff and making the traction control come on as your inside wheel is digging in and turning at a much slower rate than your outside wheel.

But tyre grip/quality, and surface grip/quality will have a big bearing on it too.

Best bet it before a spirited hills run is to hold the VDC button for 15 seconds to turn off almost all of the VDC/traction control stuff. This works on my car, but apparently does not work on all. See if it still does it then to rule out anything electronic. But if your lower control arm bushes are shot it will still VDC you mid-corner no matter what.

post-669-0-00779100-1393390807_thumb.jpg

Oh wow, could be that simple.

I am getting it serviced at Sinergy on Monday and hopefully they can change those bits.

I have the g35 eibach pro springs. So shouldn't be them, was happening before that anyway.

I have 275 on the rears and they were 600 new the tyres. Good quality Khumos.

Does that kit you linked too, do both sides?

Thankyou heaps for that.

Hopefully it is that simple, because it is an horrendous with the lofty ravenes 1 metre to your left and your car not turning!

Yeah I am pretty sure that kit does ALL of the front control bushes (upper and lower).

But you do NOT want to pay Synergy to install them - you would be looking over $1k in labour easy - it is a BIG job. Your best bet would be to do what I did and pull out the lower and upper control arms, then either hacksaw/C-clamp press out all of the bushes, or take the whole lot to a mechanic and get them to press out the old ones and press in the new ones.

While you are there you would DEFINITELY want to replace your lower ball joints, and mine went not long after I did the bushes and I had to mess with it again (you need x 2).

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=12275&Car_Type=G35&UID=20140225231523219.90.234.225

Here is a link to just lower control arm bushes if you don't want to do the whole thing (you need a pair obviously):

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=11376&Car_Type=G35&UID=20140225231523219.90.234.225

I'm not game enough to do it myself..Id rather pay a professional to do it.

If i just get them to change the lower control arm bushings either side and the lower ball joint then hopefully that fixes the issue.

It is actually the worst feeling! Even happens when i change lanes really quick, or going around an intersection.

Not likely to be wheel weight.

I would say worn or failed suspension components, causing the car to not corner as well as it should and the VDC system is detecting this as 'slip', or the ST angle adjustment for the VDC system is out.

Had all new bushes done today. Problem still exists.Went for a drive in the hills and it is definitely under braking. The brake pedal modulates in and out as the wheel is turned. Feels as though ABS is activating. The slip light also comes on..

Really bad this time around.

Maybe a bad ABS module or unit or perhaps a traction control issue. Saw an article about tyre size...http://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/197329-the-top-100-common-questions-3.html?postcount=45#post4936171

I have 245/35/19 on the front and 275/35/19 on the rear. I have my old set of tyres still, so i might try and whack them back on and still see if the issue exists.

Sonicii...what is the best way to go about checking for the ST angle option?

Are you positive that they changed the lower control arm bushes? You want the ones in the pic I posted earlier changed - the ones that connect the lower control arms to the car. How much did it cost you and how long did they take to do your work?

Sonicii...what is the best way to go about checking for the ST angle option?

you will need consult or any datascan device that can read the steering angle output. It should read zero when the steering wheel is in the 'straight ahead' position.

If it doesn't, the VDC will think you are trying to turn more or less than you actually are and then try to correct your path to what it 'thinks' you are trying to do.

Consult, or some aftermarket datascan devices will let you calibrate this item if required.

Surely a mechanic will know that... maybe ask Eric the car guy on you tube he probably know more than our overpriced mechanics who wont spend enough time on our problem as they make more money charging hundreds for a 20min oil change..

Yeah they changed the lower control arm bushes. 260 for both sides fitted. I'm taking it to Pedders tomorrow to get a 28 buck safety check, I'm getting desperate. Sonicii....where do you get that done?

Who is Eric?

Put the stock wheels on and see if the problem goes away. It is most probably wheel speed sensor related, might be worth changing them over from a known good set just to fault find if the stock wheels don't fix it.

mine did this a lot when i got new tyres i beleive its maybe the rolling diameter issue?? i had 245/35/19 fronts and 285/35/19 rears

not im running 255/35/19 fronts and 285/35/19 rears

it does not do it as often anymore but i also changed my diff bushes so maybe that had an effect also

Yeah that article i posted was saying people had an issue with that. The tyre combination i have they say is one that keeps the vdc/tcs happy. I have my old set of wheels still around but i recall it doing them as well. But they never did it before my front left wheel fell off while driving!

The thing is, when it does it, the brake pedal modulates underneath my foot as if the brakes are actually being applied. That isn't normal when turning a corner. I should be able to lose the back end first rather then the front wheels lock up.

But they never did it before my front left wheel fell off while driving!

Might have something to do with it... :rolleyes:

I would say the wheel speed sensor or teeth are damaged. Have you had a close look at the teeth?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...