Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title suggests I have a R33 Nissan Skyline Series 1 R33 Gts-t

The car has been sitting for a long time and now I get it running again there's a god aweful deap sounding rattle/Whine coming from where the exhaust cams CAS is.

I know this has been brought us SOOOO many times before and I have read something like 30-40 posts about the issue and there is a lot of sudgestions but not 1 had a result.

Well a helpful one anyway.

There are a lot of ideas on what it MIGHT be but it's like no one ever gets the issue sorted.

At first it sounds like the timing cover is rubbing NOPE.

People have suggested timing belt NOPE

Idler pullies guides and so on NOPE

This is a link to a vid of my noise

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440271-r33-rb25det-casexhaust-timing-noise/
Share on other sites

Do you have a spare CAS? I had problems with mine ages ago when I did the timing belt. Didnt make a noise with the timing cover off but did with it on. For ages I thought it was just the timing cover vibrating. Turned out to be the CAS. I pulled it off and it was really hard to turn it by hand. So maybe pull it off and feel if the bearing feels rough/hard to turn

I thought that it might be throwing the bearing inside the CAS unit but it was a mongrel to remove but when I did it was spinning really freely. Flick it in between my 2 fingers like I'm trying to click my fingers and it spins. Make a little bit of a wierd noise thou.

I will try using the one off if my mates R33 S2!and see how that goes.

I will keep you posted

Do you have the washers for the CAS seal in there? They are needed or you will have CAS issues. The seal for the CAS sits in the timing cover and has 3 thick washers with groves in them fro the seal to sit in

Just remember that without these washers you can have issues

  • Like 1

Just an update.

The noise for some reason is different in the vid.

The noise is there at idle and stays there till around 1500rpm then disappears to where it is barely noticeable. But comes back when it returned back to idle.

  • 1 month later...

did you check if the washers are there?

Do you have the washers for the CAS seal in there? They are needed or you will have CAS issues. The seal for the CAS sits in the timing cover and has 3 thick washers with groves in them fro the seal to sit in

Just remember that without these washers you can have issues

I've asked the same question twice........

The thick washers NEED to be there.

Did you replace it with a new or a second hand CAS? If its second hand, whos to say it isnt semi stuffed as well?

Bit of an up date.

I called Nissan and the bloke told me that when new or working properly there is supposed to be SOME resistance when it is turned by Hand. To little and it's buggered. To much and it's buggered.

I swapped CAS with one off if a friends car that I know worked good and has no noise.

But no difference.

But I replaced it anyway. And the noise has died down.

Now I have a new issue.

The engine sounds like it's missing.

I have replaced the plugs. New spill fire coils.

But no change. Gunna start a new post about it.

I wont even bother anymore. Myself and at least one other person have told you what the problem most likely is. And you continue to ignore it. I cant be bothered anymore with people that don't read/listen

Some resistance. That's funny.

Ignoring the correct and sensible advice is even funnier. Let us know when this case starts making noise.

And I have to ask, with all this messing with the cas,did you set the timing correctly each time?

I have tried everything you guys have suggested.

AND NOTHING HAS WORKED.

Also you do not have to recalibrate your timing every time you remove your CAS Nissan said as I asked the question. They said NO because of the way the Keyway is set up and the toothing of the shaft it can only go on one way.

I'm sorry for not spending every minute on here but if I did how would I be able to try what people suggest.

I'm the one having issues and getting a handful of suggestions (That I do appreciate ) and I'm the one that has try physically do what you suggest. But if your going to act like a phsycotic wives carrying on because I don't answer your text right away then please don't bother posting.

Well that's just wrong. Have you noticed the massive slots the cas bolts go through?

Nissan don't give a shit about you or your car. They want to sell and service new cars,not help guys with old cars. You are wasting their time calling them,and that is reflected by their advice given to you.

If you think you line it up that good by eye good luck to you. You are lucky you havn't pinged the engine to death yet.

And finally, pull your head in bud, take a little time to show some respect to the people who are helping you out. The same question was asked multiple times and you didn't answer it, that's your fault for not mentioning you tried it (which I am assuming).

As above, its pretty obvioust that you do need to check timing every time you remove and re-install the CAS. You can mark the CAS and timing cover and try and bolt it up tight in the same spot, but it may not be 100%

And seriously, get over yourself. I tried to help you, and I think if you look back you will find my first 2 posts were as helpful as I could be with the information I had. It was because I asked you about the spacers/washers behind the CAS 3 times with no response (And you still havent actually said that you have checked they are there)

So I will explain to you why they are important. If they are not there, the CAS bottoms out and pushes the shaft etc into the bearings, causing extra wear which will lead ot bearing failure and NOISE.

Touch cas, re time

Loosen a few bolts, retime

Marked out cas place in same spot, retime

Replaced cas, retime

Do anything to cas, retime

Running aftermarket ecu? Lock timing and retime

And yes, listen to jiffo - he knows more than Nissan

I've asked the same question twice........

The thick washers NEED to be there.

Did you replace it with a new or a second hand CAS? If its second hand, whos to say it isnt semi stuffed as well?

I have checked the washers and there there.

I have also checked the clearances between the CAS and the cam it's self and with the 2 gaskets and washers Inplace I have 2.5mm clearance.

I do agree with you saying maybe the second hand one could be buggered aswell.

I have been told of a place that can just replace the bearing.

I have put up an update to this post aswell

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...