Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The new family car. Family life doesn't mean you stop playing with cars, you just change priorities and the cars you play with.

These are just some of the 60 pics from Iron Chef's office in Japan. Cannot wait for this thing to land and chuck some front tint, rims, exhaust & a kit on it.

post-67928-0-01710900-1395224055_thumb.jpgpost-67928-0-65729000-1395224056_thumb.jpgpost-67928-0-59160100-1395224058_thumb.jpgpost-67928-0-39775300-1395224060_thumb.jpgpost-67928-0-60100900-1395224061_thumb.jpgpost-67928-0-82454600-1395224062_thumb.jpgpost-67928-0-09442000-1395224064_thumb.jpgpost-67928-0-99071800-1395224065_thumb.jpgpost-67928-0-77266000-1395224067_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440747-jzs171w-toyota-crown-estate/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Looks terrific. Which workshop are you getting it complied at?

I saw a black Crown Estate at Revolution Imports a few weeks back.Looked very nice. I too am thinking about getting one of these to haul the family around. It seems like a good compromise.

There are very few of these around, and a lot less are Wagons. Have you been on Aus-vip? Plenty of Crown owners popping up.

Getting it complied at Revolution Imports, just got word this arvo that it's now complied, so it was possibly mine that you saw.

I've joined up on Aus-VIP, no posts yet, waiting until I get the car & doing some research about 1Js.

  • 3 weeks later...

Car is now home and registered. Needs a good detail before I post up any pics.

Failed initial inspection on the window tint being too dark, had to be removed. HID headlights were also converted by the compliance mob to halogen because they're not auto-levelling and don't have a washer system as per AUS requirements.

Tint and factory HIDs are going straight back on the car now that it has rego.

Car is now home and registered. Needs a good detail before I post up any pics.

Failed initial inspection on the window tint being too dark, had to be removed. HID headlights were also converted by the compliance mob to halogen because they're not auto-levelling and don't have a washer system as per AUS requirements.

Tint and factory HIDs are going straight back on the car now that it has rego.

There were no probs with them giving you the factory hid's?

Atoyot forum that way. >>>> :P

Aus requirements can suck my big one. How is it safer to have water droplets covering your headlight, dispersing the light? I told the compliancer/salesman if it didn't have the HID's in when I came to pick it up, I wasn't paying for it.

Nice car anyway, looks like a C34 stagea at the front, Mercedes rear, but with a decent engine. ;)

The compliance joint has said they'll send them to me and what I do with them from there is my business. They've advised me I'd be defected for them if refitted.

Oh thats good. They used to have to destroy them.

Atoyot forum that way. >>>> :P

Bah! Is the VW one over there also? :P

Here's the electric controls and what I've found playing about so far.

seat controls - forward & back on the seat rail, back rest up & down, base tilt and lumbar support (driver only)
rear seat back rest is adjustable from rear passenger arm rests
sunroof - open, close and tilt
nav/stereo/centre display has individual climate control, TV options, GPS I haven't had much of a play with yet

a few other Japanese buttons that don't work
fold in mirrors with a separate button for mirror demister
PWR/ECT/SNOW button - possibly for road conditions, not sure
traction control
steering wheel has UP buttons on the rear and DOWN buttons on the front. These don't appear to be for the stereo, so possibly cruise control, though I'm yet to work that out.
6 stacker CD player and a tape deck

found a DVD player above the glovebox
has more interior lights than a 70's disco

has green LEDs in the guide lights on the front guards

bad points:

FM band receiver wasn't installed

middle seat belt hs been removed

LHS headlight doesn't work, probably from the bloody halogens being installed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...