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Danny14 R33 Gtr 1996 Rips Rb26/30 Build

danny14
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danny14 Mentor

danny14

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Is this catch can going to be big enough for my setup welding two -12 fittings on it one in middle and one at bottom and 2 lines from yhat running to top of sump.

Its a split tank that was already on the car it has window washers and oil the other side as you can see .

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danny14
danny14

Engine finally going in

danny14
danny14

Nearlly ready

Hanaldo
Hanaldo

Regarding fuel hoses, teflon braided are a good idea but not necessary. IMO if you're spending an obviously large amount of money on your setup, what's another $200 for lines and fittings? Makes worki

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danny14 Mentor

danny14

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Fitted my greedy oil cooler on drivers side today had to do a little modification to mounting bracket because i no longer have stock intercooler ,still need to fit up all the lines I had to remove stock bovs

Now in the instructions for the kit it has trust bovs fitted the stock bovs will not fit with the cooler I yhat location seen as though im running a single turbo do I need 2 bovs ? Or just fit 1 in its place if so what type im not into the wanky bov noise .....

I got the stock bovs to fit but outlet pipe sits abit low and inner guard fouls on it cant win ha ha

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DCIEVE Mentor

DCIEVE

Posted
Posted

Is this catch can going to be big enough for my setup welding two -12 fittings on it one in middle and one at bottom and 2 lines from yhat running to top of sump.

Its a split tank that was already on the car it has window washers and oil the other side as you can see .

You only really need to drain it to the sump if you're going to be doing some circuit work. In that case two -12 breathers of the cam covers to the top of the can and either one -8 or bigger drain at the bottom of the can to the top of the sump. If you want to let the crankcase vent from the sump you can add a second line from the top of the sump to the top of the can. Even if you don't plan to do track work I'd be welding all of the extra fittings to the catch can and sump while it's apart so if the day does come where you need them it's an easy job

Also keep in mind if the car will be doing a lot of street k's the drain is going to mean more frequent oil changes due to all the condensation on short trips.

  • 3 weeks later...
danny14 Mentor

danny14

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Hey guys been very busy with my new buisiness but head is complete sitting in nz ready to send to rob amd my bottom end is also complete rob is just waiting for head

With fuel setup is a 2.5 litre catch can good enough for my powrr figure with 2 bosch 044s ex and 1 internal ?

danny14 Mentor

danny14

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You only really need to drain it to the sump if you're going to be doing some circuit work. In that case two -12 breathers of the cam covers to the top of the can and either one -8 or bigger drain at the bottom of the can to the top of the sump. If you want to let the crankcase vent from the sump you can add a second line from the top of the sump to the top of the can. Even if you don't plan to do track work I'd be welding all of the extra fittings to the catch can and sump while it's apart so if the day does come where you need them it's an easy job

Also keep in mind if the car will be doing a lot of street k's the drain is going to mean more frequent oil changes due to all the condensation on short trips.

Rob has fitted 2 -12 fittings to sump so I can run one to bottom of catch can and one to middle of catch can and I already have my 2 -10 lines running from top of catch can to each rocker cover

  • 2 weeks later...
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

The size of of the surge tank will have have no impact on how much power the fuel system is capable of,it is only going to effect the surge resistance of it.

Having said that I would say it will be fine. You can get away with no surge tank depending on fuel tank level.

Can't wait to see this run soon!

danny14 Mentor

danny14

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Ok im noe up to the stage of doing fuel setup and new electronic gauges what are some good gauges to purchase that are well priced Im looking at removing the stock ones in the centre of the dash and replacing with new ones well 2 of them anyways

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

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Problem with small capacity surge tanks is they heat soak quickly, my custom one is 8.5ltr and I am looking into a new bigger one as it starts to heat soak fairly quick

If not track car twin intank it with either 044s or Walbro E85 pumps and carry 1/2 tank min for track use and you won't have an issue

Breathing from the sump is ok for a street car but if you do it for a track car the catch can will quiet quickly over fill and make a mess of your engine bay, especially if you have breathers in the can it self, run a line from the bottom of the catch can to sump by all means but put a one way valve in it to allow oil in to sump but not vise versa

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

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Better off having the return from the rail going straight back to the main tank not into the surge.

2.6ltr is fine if you do it this way, you just have to make sure the intank pump/s out flow the main pumps

That's the same sort of useage I'm doing, so no 2.6 will heat soak quiet quickly and you be pumping heated fuel into the engine, 2 x 044s will turn the fuel around a lot faster from the engine then the 1 044 intank can flush the heated fuel from the surge tank

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

2.6ltr is fine if you do it this way, you just have to make sure the intank pump/s out flow the main pumps

Should do as there is no pressure.

New setup will be biggest electric Weldon out of main tank to surge and a Weldon mech pump to the rail, woo.

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

I've got the weldon 2025 as my main and the walbro E85 as my lift, I hate the Weldon, it is the loudest farkin thing I have ever heard :(, the pump is rubber mounted the bracket that holds the pump is rubber mounted the plate that the bracket is mounted to is rubber mounted and there is a price of -12 Kevlar braided between the pump and surge tank, am going to custom a 10ltr with twin walbro E85 intanks, cause street car > race car

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
danny14 Mentor

danny14

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I know its been a long time but progress is coming along my engine is finished at rips in nz i also have purchased a full fuel setup from rips aswell to fit in the rig

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      OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
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