Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys got a timing issue after a bit of help constructive criticism welcome

So recently just did water pump so I did a new timing belt at the same time as well as spark plugs

Got the timing light on I and its 30 degrees advanced but before that I drove it up the street and it spools like crazy and goes nowhere, obviously it's running retarded as hell, cas at full retarded gives me 25 degrees advanced so something is clearly wrong

By the way I've done timing belts before......

So took it all off to re check, and re did the belt incase i missed something,

All lines up properly on the crank pulley, and intake and exhaust cam marks all line up

Started it up again , sent photos of the timing belt marks to a mechanic who said all good

Sounds like a wrx and timing light says like 50 degrees advanced

......anyone got any ideas?

Also pulled the plug out and realised I got supplied rb25 plugs not rb20 so ill get rb20 sparkles in ASAP.

Got a spare cas ill try,

Obviously when cars under load the ecu is reading it knocking so its retarded the timing to keep it safe so I've got no power

But I should be able to get base timing right..?

Gonna check ecu codes ASAP too

Any ideas are appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/
Share on other sites

The loop socks for some reason.

To use coil pack just plug a lead onto it to the plug (from a different car) and click pickup onto it

Have heard guys just open pickup and put it on the top of coil pack.

When the tps is disconnected it goes to base idle, otherwise the ecu adjusts timing to maintain steady idle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245144
Share on other sites

Disconnect the coil pack from the spark plug. Use a spark plug lead from another car to connect it to the plug.

Connect timing light to the lead.

A regular lead off a car with a distributor or an ls v8 will work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245168
Share on other sites

O.K to elaborate on the above, Plug the lead on the spark plug as you normally would with a plug lead. Now in the other end that would normally go on the coil/dizzy, put an appropriate size bolt in the coilpack and plug the lead into this (I put the head of the bolt in the coilpack)

Now I think you have to unplug the TPS or AAC to get it to sit on base idle so the timing remains constant. I cant remember this part yet but a google search should be able to find the answer (or search on here)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245211
Share on other sites

Matt, if the key is broken, the CAS can go back in any position, but there is only one position where the engine will even start.

Idle is basically controlled with fuel. Variations in timing at idle are likely caused by the map being moved to a different load/rpm cell. Timing doesn't vary by more than 1 degree at idle, in my experience.

Callan, WTF? You don't need bolts shoved up coil packs. You peel back the small rubber cap on the "dizzy" end of the plug lead (maybe even cut it off) and the lead becomes the spark plug for the coil. The other end of the lead slips onto the spark plug (as it would in a "dizzied" application). Then connect the timing light to the spark plug lead (note the pickup is directional).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245458
Share on other sites

  On 31/03/2014 at 9:35 PM, blind_elk said:

Matt, if the key is broken, the CAS can go back in any position, but there is only one position where the engine will even start.

Idle is basically controlled with fuel. Variations in timing at idle are likely caused by the map being moved to a different load/rpm cell. Timing doesn't vary by more than 1 degree at idle, in my experience.

Not entirely true, I have seen cars with the CAS out by 1 tooth or so and they still start (obviously don't run well but still idled fine)

Also I have seen (My car) range between 0 and 15 degrees timing at idle. Caused when the base idle is set way too high and the ecu pulls timing to bring it down.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245491
Share on other sites

  On 31/03/2014 at 9:35 PM, blind_elk said:

Callan, WTF? You don't need bolts shoved up coil packs. You peel back the small rubber cap on the "dizzy" end of the plug lead (maybe even cut it off) and the lead becomes the spark plug for the coil. The other end of the lead slips onto the spark plug (as it would in a "dizzied" application). Then connect the timing light to the spark plug lead (note the pickup is directional).

Its how I've always done it. 8mm bolt, head fits perfect in the boot and lead fits perfectly over the shank of the bolt.

Nothing has been wrecked and it always works. I don't see what the big issue is

obviously you dont use a 20mm bolt to do this, I'm sure I'm not the only one who uses a small bolt, after all I had to get the idea from somewhere

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245508
Share on other sites

  On 31/03/2014 at 10:17 PM, superben said:

My car (s2 stagea) definitely alters timing to maintain idle.

When tps is disconnected it runs 15.

Yeah my engine manual says you need to disconnect the 'throttle sensor connection' so need to unplug the TPS

I think I had the timing jumping around within a few degrees of 15 when I did this for the first time with either my stock ECU or Power FC. Didnt have the TPS unplugged

OP you can either put the idle down to 650rpm (Which I think is too low) or try it with the TPS unplugged at 750rpm. I dont recall ever having to many issues. AFAIK Disconnecting the TPS tricks the computer into thinking it shouldnt be in the idle map so it goes to default map. It's harder without a scan tool or something plugged into the car to confirm it is at the timing you want. But if you check the timing with a plug lead and timing light, with the TPS disconnected and its pretty steady, I'd say you will be fine.

Try it with the TPS plugged in as well for comparison if you want. FYI I think you have to unplug or plug in the TPS before starting the car. So need to turn off the car, unplug, start car, check timing. Not 100% sure but think there was something like that

Edited by 89CAL
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441315-timing-issue/#findComment-7245519
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dredgggggeeee time; I have recently finally started driving the car. It sat for so long that the fuel tank gave birth to rust sludge and blocked my lift pump sock and one of my walbro 460's and left grime, rust chunks and muck all through the surge tank and system. I decided to commit and pull the trigger on an oem r32 gtr fuel tank and Frenchys twin 460 / sender / surge tank hanger combo and all new larger lines and fittings etc, also boost doc heater hose kit / new heater core and a heap of other bits and shits like wideband sensor installed in the dump and Syltech iacv + lines and all wired and added to current tune. now having lightly driven it a couple times without issue, I can happily report on the hta3076 in its current tune. still no boost control switched on, 20psi gate springs, car makes 22psi at 3200rpm in 6th gear with 30-50% TPS from cruise at 100kmh. Going by the old graph, this means it should be making 300-325whp at the same numbers above. Very very responsive setup under true road driving loads. all that's left for the build is body loom + PDM, finish the remote aircon setup, install carbon fibre parts and go for full tune and 30psi. the 315 rear tyres are now performing like they're 195's, wheel spin in any gear at almost any rpm, whereas my previous setup hooked up in 3rd no issue, albeit Nt01's back then / RB25 5spd vs (new) old date r888r's Z34 6spd now, + obviously all the support upgrades I listed in the quoted post above. car sits at 1-3psi on cruise at 100kmh, expectations totally exceeded and I'm beyond stoked with all this so far. IMG_4848.mov
    • I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 
    • Can a moderator please move this into the right category.. I've accidently put this into racing build thread 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Being a manual, we very quickly ordered new R34 gearbox (From Nissan) and remaining parts from Kudos motorsports. Would highly recommend the team there. Ultra helpful and quick to share advice and upgrades. We are in the middle of taking the Auto out (Genuine 94,000/kms) and putting the Manual in this weekend. Part 2 of the build will include likely a Plazaman Intercooler and Plenium, Hks Exhaust with Tomei Dump (ordered).
×
×
  • Create New...