Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fairly new to skylines as ive only had my r33 for about a month. I want to have a crack at drift but the stock viscous lsd is very loose and unpredictable. I've done a bit of research and from what I've read the viscous lsds aren't worth wasting money on (correct me if I'm wrong).

So what are my best value for money options considering the car will still be driven on the road from time to time. ( I have no interest in welding my diff I'd rather do it right and do it once)

- Buy an new aftermarket lsd such as kaaz, nismo, cusco (expensive. Are they worth the money?)

-buy a second hand diff with aftermarket lsd installed from an importer. ( a little less expensive and lsd is already installed but worried I will get one that's worn out and needs rebuilding which could get costly)

- from what I have read Gtrs had a mechanical 2 way that works well when shimmed/rebuilt will these fit in a gtst how much work is involved and what kind of money would this set me back.

Any advice from someone with experience would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441360-r33-gtst-lsd-diff-options/
Share on other sites

Lots of guys into drift run a 2 way but either will suit your purposes really. All of the above-mentioned brands would be fine as they are tried and tested. Kaaz have good support and make all the clutches etc. available for rebuild if it becomes worn out down the track, unsure about availability of the others.

As above, most drift guys will likely run a 2 way over a 1.5 way.

I bought my Kaaz 1.5 way diff centre second hand from Yahoo auctions Japan and had it shipped over through Jesse Streeter. I think the 2 way diffs were even less as there were more around than the 1.5 ways when I was looking.

Cost me a bit less than $500 delivered. Had it refurb'd and reshimmed locally, then installed into my existing diff housing. Cost me around $1000 by the time it was in my car.

Diff is super tight and haven't looked back!

Best option is R34 helical. Found on later model coupe GTT only R34 manual. Good luck !

Won't need rebuilt, better street diff than clutch-type but not as good for 100% balls-out lifted wheel action on a track.

My mechanical is noisy. It makes the inside wheel skip and chatter on turns, and gives the car a good shake when cold.

It's not a daily driver though so I don't mind it.

Throw in OS GIKEN 80W-250. Calmed down my GT Pro by 90%.
  • 2 weeks later...
My mechanical is noisy. It makes the inside wheel skip and chatter on turns, and gives the car a good shake when cold.

It's not a daily driver though so I don't mind it.

Add limslip or use Nulon SAE90 GL5 oil. Mines pretty good and you don't even notice it half the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...