Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I just finished my first real alloy fabrication project.

I bought a TIG about 2 months ago for some weekend fun :)

Decided to make a catch can/washer bottle for my R33 out of 2mm alloy sheet.

I'm still trying to get the hand and feed speed right, but hopefully more seat time will help!

Any tips or criticism would be greatly appreciated!

Chris :)

post-55684-13964117687792_thumb.jpgpost-55684-13964117897538_thumb.jpgpost-55684-13964118094256_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441396-first-attempt-at-alloy-fabrication/
Share on other sites

Looks pretty good to me. Better than some workshops. :)

Practice is the only way to get better. Were you using a foot pedal? I gotta get me one, stopping to turn the dial down as the work heats up is a pita.

The cap was an eBay job- cost $28 including postage which i thought was reasonable.

I am just using the T2 control on the torch at the moment but would like to get a pedal in the future.

My biggest challenge is training my left-hand to feed properly!

Looks good, try stepping up to 3mm for items like these, makes life a hell of alot easier and you dont need to worry about a foot pedal for the tig, I'm a boily by trade who does way to much tig and i f**king hate foot pedals. If you're having lots of problems with heat soaking the material my advice is to Tack it how you want, than put a solid tack on each outside corner were the 3 pieces of material come together than its simple a case of welding from one tack to the other and blowing the material offf with an air gun inbetween runs aswell as dropping the amperage a a touch after the first few. If you feel its getting to hot Let it sit there for 10-15 minutes inbetween runs.. Take your time and be patient.

  • Like 1

Getting there bud, tonal it easier to get even ripples, get the use the move, stop, add technique makes it a lot easier to get the " stack of dimes" beads as both hands don't have to work at the same time with bigger runs I make tacks in the corners then 4 inches apart with no filler so it doesn't ruin the run you are about to do and clean surfaces and good fit is key, have fun mate

  • 3 weeks later...

Nah wasn't me it was probably a bloke called David lol.

My car is off the road at the moment getting a new turbo upgrade so hopefully will be out and about again soon. One of your catch cans would finish it off nicely I reckon ;)

  • 2 weeks later...

Nah wasn't me it was probably a bloke called David lol.

My car is off the road at the moment getting a new turbo upgrade so hopefully will be out and about again soon. One of your catch cans would finish it off nicely I reckon ;)

If you're serious about a catch can PM me, I've just moved up to darwin and have a little bit of time to do small fab jobs. Also check my thread in the fabrication section if you want to see previous work i've done.

For anyone who is interested I have another one which is almost finished.

Don't have any idea what they are worth to sell but Ill post a picture of the finished item and if someone wants to make an offer on it, go for it!

Cheers

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...