Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure if its been covered...

What is your exhaust like?

Um dumps are shiney Tomei items (Well they were shiney once). Rest of system is 3.5 inch. Cant remember what was downstream of the dump pipes but they were round & stainless.

Point is car will run to 22lb just not on the boost controller.

post-5134-0-00171200-1397525833_thumb.jpg

Just for other random people reading this: See the image above. The spring (preloaded by the variable length actuator rod) is there to hold the wastegate shut. By shortening the actuator rod you increase the load on the spring and therefore the wastegate stays shut for longer/under more pressure, all else being equal.

Air under pressure to the diaphragm on the actuator works to open the wastegate. If you are running a bleed valve reducing the air to the actuator will give you more boost as there isn’t as much air flow/pressure to oppose the spring and open the wastegate. If you are running an electronic boost controller surely the last thing you want to do is reduce the amount of air supplied to the controller – simply because controlling airflow is the controllers job. The Blitz is a dual solenoid type which should easilly allow a sufficient range of airflow to work over a 22lb setup. Maybe it isnt the case for a single solenoid type and people put a restictor down stream of it but to my addled brain that is a dodgy way of fixing the problem and would surely reduce the boost controllers responsiveness?

What I am guessing is happening in this case is that there isn’t enough air going through the solenoids to oppose a larger spring force - either because it has shit the biscuit or blocked with something. Hence insufficient preload can be applied to the actuators/spring to hold it shut at 22lb or insufficient air flow provided to open them up. (Choose your preferred failure mode). Hence I can only get a rather indifferent 16lb.

Anyway fingers crossed a new solenoid will fix the problem.

The boost going into the actuator works against the spring to open the wastegate puck. It doesn't hold it shut unless you have a dual port actuator, similar to an external gate, which is very rare in internal applications.

You either need boost pushing from the other side of the diaphragm, or a stronger spring. Putting a restrictor inline acts like a capacitor, smoothing the boost out, it won't help you, nor will winding so much preload into it that the puck can't travel anymore. Preload doesn't make the spring stronger, it just limits the wastegate travel.

It just slows the wastegate down, restricting the speed it can open or close. Not ideal.

Nissan only use restrictors to adjust the amount of air the stock solenoid bleeds off, it adjusts the boost level using the restrictor hole size.

Yes. Important point to remember.....air does not "flow" in a wastegate control line. At least not at the wastegate actuator end of it. It is a simple pressure system. Apply pressure at one end of a (closed) pipe and it turns up at the other end.

The only flow involved is once you start bleeding. By allowing some air to flow through a restrictor you get a pressure drop caused by the flow itself (basically internal gas and wall friction). Not rocket science. Well, maybe primary school rocket science.

  • 3 weeks later...

post-5134-0-50430900-1399011400_thumb.jpg

post-5134-0-29606400-1399011483_thumb.jpg

See photo for gory details of inside of new boost control solenoid. Pretty basic stuff. Solenoid measures 38 ohms resistance. Guessing the little vents (on the left hand side with the green paint on the end and then behind that) allow the controller to dump the air out of the waste gate lines when necessary.

Oddly (or not?) you can push air through it with no voltage on. Flows from inlet to outlet. Not sure why this is possible.

  • 2 weeks later...

I spent a lot of time trying to solve a similar problem. Was sure everything was right, then when i ran out of parts to blame in process of elimination, i pulled the vac line off the stock bov connection to find it was not under vacuum at all.

The re-circulation of air was causing restriction in amount of boost i could run. Workshop missed it during tune also.

Worth a check!

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...