Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just checked it is infact connected properly to the solenoid does it mean that the solenoid is not working then?

is there a chance that it might not be getting enough power to control the solenoid becasue i connected the power line which comes from the greddy unit to the line which came from the back of my cigerette lighter?

Edited by Deathvalley

i figured out the problem.its the valve uni harness.the white thing that connects to the greddy main unit came right off.probably thats why it wasnt controling the solenoid.

is there anyway to fix that?or should i just order a replacement?

can anyone tell me how to check the solenoid.i want to see that it is working properly before i spend any money on this thing.

Can you cable tie the plug to hold it in?

To check it is working connect a bike pump to the gauge pressure line for the controller and with ignition on pump some pressure into it .

You should hear the solenoid pulsing quickly.

Edited by superben

If it were me, I would open up the main unit, solder on a couple of wires to the pads where the external socket is, bring those outside the case to a new multi-pin connector from Jaycar or similar, cut off damaged white plug and replace with matching connector from Jaycar. Job done. 15 minutes plus trip to Jaycar.

@gts boy man great idea.

i checked in jay car

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PP2020

the small one is the picture is the one that will connect to the greddy unit if i can get them to connect the wire to the pin then i dont need to take the main unit apart i think.

i will take that route if i m unable to find a solution.

thnxx alot mate.

SUCCESS!!!

Thanks a lot @gtsboy your advice worked.i bought the white thing from jaycars and it pluged up straight to the main unit.hit 9 psi just in one run.

now i have some questions regarding tuning.

1-since i am auto should i tune it in 2nd or 3rd?

2-lets say my start boost is 8 psi and desired boost is 11 psi.DOES THAT MEAN IN A PROPER TUNE it will boost from 80 to 110?AND THERE SHOULD BE NO FALL IN THE BOOST WHEN ITS OPEN THROTTLE?

3-I am not sure what boost spike is i did only one run until 80 not sure in what gear but i saw the boost go up to 90 around 4500rpm but then it fell.IS THAT BOOST SPIKE?

thanks a lot in advance for all your help guys!!.

:yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes:

Good stuff.

Tune in 2nd to start with. 3rd will have you going very fast whilst trying to see what's going on with boost. But after you've got it set up you shoudl check what it does in 3rd also. You might want to adjust it a bit.

With ref to your point 2....yes and yes. Although boost may still drop off at the top end. And that may especially happen if you're getting into R&R territory and there is just too mush fuel and too little ignition advance to keep the fires stoked. The Profec's gain setting is what you should use to try to stop the boost falling away at the top end.

With ref to your point 3....if your start boost is 8 and you're aiming for 11, then 9 is not a spike. If your setpoint was actually 8 at the time, then yes, 9 is a spike.

ya that what i was thinking if i try to tune it in 3rd gear it already goes up to 150 kmh in 5500 rpm.my car is boost 8 psi stock so i am gona tune it for 11.tomorrow i am driving to grampians so hopefully i will get it done there.

so basically spike is if it goes above my desired boost level.for eg i want 11 psi goes up to 12 at some point thats spike.

if boost goes to 11 around 5500 rpm but falls later on that means i need to adjust gain.

all good.

lets see what happens tomorrow.

couldnt wait until grampians. so went out to tullamarine just now.

i achieved 111 with

set 33

gain 33

set gain 70

the gain is too high but i could achieve constant boost throughout the rpm.

with this setting there was a slight drop like 109,108,then it was 110 and just before shifting to 3rd 111.will try to fine tune it tomrrow but is this good enuf?

if your target boost is 11psi you can probably bring up the set gain from 70 (7psi) to 90 or 95, bit closer to your desired boost level.

Or not.

The turbosmart eboost 2 recommends the set point (same as set gain on ptofec) yo be 5 psi less than setting.

But try it and see to be sure.

He's not using the turbosmart eboost. He's using the profec.....which recommends set gain a cpl of psi below target boost. Why would he follow the instructions of a different manufacturer for a completely different boost controller rather than that of the one he is using...?

Thanks for pointing out the thread title

I am aware of what he is using. I added that info so he is aware other manufacturers don't suggest setting the set point so close to the target as it can cause spiking.

Have you ever set up a profec? I have found if the set gain is too close it will spike, using a profec.

At the end of the day I don't care what he does, using it on a stock car is a waste of money.

ya setting set gain too close to wanted max boost gives boost spike.

i have it pretty much tuner actually i think its ok.

@superben.

man i just came back from grampians the roads are really nice and without any cameras so i tested out the car several times in stock boost and high boost.

i donno why u keep sayin putin the boost controller is a waste but 100-180 in 11 psi was really a lot alot faster then the stock boost.

i was actually selecting my mod list according to the HPI R34 VIDEO on youtube.

with a full turbo back exhaust system and 10psi boost they got 33kw gain on wheels.

i know i havent dynoed my car but even if i have 20 kw gain after the boost controller i dont think thats that bad.

What I was saying (badly) is that an electronic controller is a waste in your case . A cheap bleed valve would have achieved the same result for less cash.

Never the less,I'm glad it has made a decent improvement for you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...