Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

umm just curious but why would it being a stock turbo make a difference? unless he's running smic? i would've thought timing and fuel would be his main issue here.

That was in reply to John asking about when full boost hits. As it's a stock turbo it would be on full boost quite early, and there is a lot of timing in that area. (And pretty much everywhere)

  • Like 1

you clowns obviously do not know how the ve on these things work, that tune looks kinda okay in the fuel maps and timing maps, if you look at a stock r33 bin image it actualy runs MORE timing up top!

ffs. ve on these things reference to another 2 places in the ecu to decide on the fueling.

now i am starting to understand why tuners lock their maps.

you could tune that ecu with most values in that fuel map at 50.

this ecu does not use a maf, its map based.

it calculates the ve a number of ways, rpm, map, ect, iat, etc etc etc.

they are a really good ecu, ve is better on the autronic and adaptronic though.

good kiwi company. what are the haltech's like? am looking at one for my mates pulsar GTIR.

a lot nicer IMHO, however you pay an arm and a leg for it. The software is more user friendly and the windows fit things nicely on a standard 1366 x 768 laptop screen

ive tuned many haltech's and link's / vipec... and i rate the belovid Kiwi's link and vipec over the haltech on any application every day of the week.

the link is better, the software is great... everything is on one drop down menu on the left side.... and the software is very customisable to show what you like while tuning.

the haltech is great also, would prefer it over many other ecu's on the market. but i really rate Link / Vipec.

you could tune that ecu with most values in that fuel map at 50.

this ecu does not use a maf, its map based.

it calculates the ve a number of ways, rpm, map, ect, iat, etc etc etc.

they are a really good ecu, ve is better on the autronic and adaptronic though.

So the fuel map after 60kpa is not to blame? Running 12psi boost.

^ do you have a wideband installed on your vehicle? I suggest you do that (when you get a new motor).

It's the timing map you should be worried about, not so much the fuel map.. Yes AFR is an attribute to kapowing motors, but in this instance your timing map stands out.

I won't say much about your map in public, PM if you want me to explain.

the haltech is about $400 cheaper than the link here. but based on what you say sounds like the difference might be worth it.

are you comparing the same ecu ? plugin for plug in ? extreme vs ps2000???

that timing map is not the reason why this engine went bang. it is not an ideal map, but it aint going to hurt anything. it could have been tuned a bit harder.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...