Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

photo1.JPG

$130 delivered including the bracket. It have made a noticeable difference on my car on the SS1 high flow that just been removed. I would like to see boosting behavior on the dyno before selling.

Videos from BoostedR on SS2 Rv4 shown differences between OEM actautor and Stiff Borgwarner actuator:

OEM actuator:

Borgwarner actuator:

Stalled up vs normal is not a very good test. My log data previously is much better to go off. I found my injectors to be leaking air also so hopefully will be able to improve response further. Difference is best described as now I have some boost available from 2500-3500 at part throttle which makes normal driving nicer. The throttle controller set to SP5 is about right for pedal feel and drop down to keep it from laboring in 5th.

Interesting to see how the Rev5 goes. I haven't been able to get more than 17psi in 1st gear. Video'd the turbo today and the gate doesn't open at all.

post-49288-14503000383967_thumb.jpg

SS2 RV5 shown on photo above is installed. It amazes me of how much of a difference of ball bearings have made on M35, which I could never notice that much on a RB engine. The actuator works pretty well, will be tuned after the new year to share some results.

5 revisions...

Trial and error isn't the best way to design an M35 turbo. Too damn hard to fit, especially to a stock car. Good to see you learning something along the way, although an apology about bagging my stock actuator spring mod wouldn't go astray.

Who is tuning it? Would be good to have more tuners interested in working with the EMU, but they might have a steep learning curve.

I've had three turbo changes up to date. In the particular area of boost control:

When there are less back pressure in the turbine housing then there are less force applying to open the gate. The larger "GT35" turbine wheel referred to, have caused a drop in exhaust gas pressure, more inlet manifold pressure is required to force the gate open, there for higher boost level. Difference between a spring hooked actuator and an stiff actuator is, the spring's extension load is not linear, It requires a huge amount of energy to pull 10mms then 3mms. While the load of a stiffer actuator is linear and consistent. Fully opened gate gains more power, OEM internal gate assembly is only made to open a limited swing plus the turbine housing is too small, there for added to boost creep. I hope I have explained why my car run no less then 29.5psi when I've made my purchase.

Majority of my customers rate M35 those as family wagons, feed them with P98 fuel. I'm making my high flows happy to run mild boost level and correspond to EBC sittings.

Auto software is not tune able at moment. its relays on low RPM boost to gain speed, Ball bearing assembly have mad an massive difference in this scenario. There are four more ball bearing configurations to trail on, I need a dyno that shows boost curve, Chihan will be doing E85 tunes after P98 maps. will enclose final results when ready.

I've had three turbo changes up to date. In the particular area of boost control:

When there are less back pressure in the turbine housing then there are less force applying to open the gate. The larger "GT35" turbine wheel referred to, have caused a drop in exhaust gas pressure, more inlet manifold pressure is required to force the gate open, there for higher boost level. Difference between a spring hooked actuator and an stiff actuator is, the spring's extension load is not linear, It requires a huge amount of energy to pull 10mms then 3mms.

My 2c

For normal linear springs, force = spring rate x displacement (that is, the amount of stretch), Now since you effectively have two springs operating in parallel in the external spring setup, the force will be the sum of both of the spring rate x displacement calculations. This will typically be non-linear, but non-linearity could be beneficial in some cases. The choice of preload and rate on the external spring can be used to tune the system's response. Since you've changed a fundamental (lower back pressure) you also need to change the actuator setup. In this case it sounds like you need less force, so you would use a lower rate spring and/or less preload.

On any turbo setup whenever a fundamental property of the system is changed (eg back pressure, gate size etc) you should start from the assumption that an actuator tweak is going to be required, external spring or not, then only leave the actuator setup as is if its shown to still work with the new setup.

That is where owning the right car makes a difference. Understanding the relations of how all parts working together when all components are available.

One problem with M35 OEM turbo is the size of turbine housing is small for its engine size, that limits the ability to discharge. Working with an highly efficient compressor wheel, there is no boost control. instead boost is "controlled" through the limitation of exhaust, intake and intercooler.

We don't have a big turbine housing to high flow, dropping exhaust gas pressure becomes critical, the scenario of actuator over pre-loading or spring enhanced method doesn't apply, waste gate must be open to full extend at desired boost level.

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...

This will be the final update on the M35 Stagea OEM turbocharger high flows. The Ball bearing RV5 have made a peek of 291awkws @ 22psi on E85 fuel, that is also happy to hold 21psi as minimum base pressure. For any more power that is boost controllable this car needs a much larger exhaust housing or external gate.

Dyno shown 27psi mid range and 22psi of where peek power is made. The mid range boost was pumped using an EBC, to increase mid range torque. Blue line is with converter unlocked and red is with convert locked.

Far as drive ability concern, it has excellent throttle response working with OEM auto in D model, and pulls hard in WTO.

Car has:
Emanage Ultimate ECU
HyperGear Turbochargers M35RV5 High flowed BB turbocharger
18psi actuator assembly

Front mount cooler kit
1000cc injectors
470L/H Walbro pump
Shift kit
Greedy EBC
3 inches turbo back exhaust
3 inches induction pipe with AFM and Pod filter.
Tuned at ETUNER Engine Management Solutions
All Mechanical work done by Kaze Motor Service

photo3.JPG

carondyno.jpg

KM/H Scaled Run:

291awkws.jpg

RPM Scaled Run:

RPM291awkw.jpg

Additional updates. This is our M35RV-1 high flow running duel ceramic ball bearing cartridges. This turbocharger is built for maximum response, happy to run OEM boost levels on OEM ECU, and matching factory drive ability with bit more power. It will be topping out towards 240awkws region using an high pressure actuator.

front.JPG

rear.JPG

So far dynosheet below shown 200awkws @ 13psi with fuel, ecu, cooler and exhaust mods. factory actuator not holding boost.

m35g1200awkw.jpg

Ps: For the best possible throttle response and off boost driving ability working with OEM auto, and low oil flow requirements. All of our M35 high flows will be running thrust less duel ceramic ball bearing cartridges.

  • Like 2

what you got there bud?

Its a holset turbo and a tail 44mm wastegate,Not sure if i linked the album correctly can u see it? looks like its going to be a while till i can put it all in, noticed a knock in my engine last week sounds like rod knock fml

The 6258 is more suited to a 2ltr or smaller. I have a 6758 on my 2ltr Wrx and you wouldn't want anymore response. We have a 6758 .8A/R on a c34 Neo Stagea making 20psi by 2500rpm.

Edited by BoostdR
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...