Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

450kw and 127mph? u sure that leak wouldnt have lost you power? i run 127mph and im only just over 500hp on 24psi, only peaked at 23 for the day though.

i don't know mate.

The only way to find out would be to run again

Awesome afternoon. The Evo guys loved it. I finally got to run my Evo for the first time & managed a 12.30 @114mph.

Does anyone know what Phil's best time was in the R35 GTR? I need to pass the info on for an internet article.

Looking back at my videos, I'm starting to wonder how I would have gone if I'd let the car get anywhere near redline...

I just have too much mechanical sympathy I think.

only be way to find out

Back to Willowbank the legume (yes, legume) goes for rev limiting thrashing

Yep, still got a free pass that expires December from a time when test and tune was rained out.

Bought an open face helmet for $40 yesterday since the full face one got too hot on Saturday.

I'll go back out as soon as Sneaky Pete decides to run his car.

Yep, still got a free pass that expires December from a time when test and tune was rained out.

Bought an open face helmet for $40 yesterday since the full face one got too hot on Saturday.

I'll go back out as soon as Sneaky Pete decides to run his car.

well Im going back this Saturday
  • Like 1

well Im going back this Saturday

Not I :(

I have however ordered some slimline engine mounts to fit my 2.5in intake and 2.5in incercooler piping that have been sitting in the box since xmas. Might as well turn a gearbox removal into a positive right?

Not I :(

I have however ordered some slimline engine mounts to fit my 2.5in intake and 2.5in incercooler piping that have been sitting in the box since xmas. Might as well turn a gearbox removal into a positive right?

so what happened exactly Mike and what times you run?

Not I :(

I have however ordered some slimline engine mounts to fit my 2.5in intake and 2.5in incercooler piping that have been sitting in the box since xmas. Might as well turn a gearbox removal into a positive right?

Engine out?
  • Like 1

so what happened exactly Mike and what times you run?

Got to the end of the quarter, slowing down, tried to shift from 4th to 3rd and it wouldn't go. Perma stuck in 4th. Was working my way into the launches having never been on MT's before. Didn't feel like I had a single clean run unfortunately. Only made 1 trip to the timeslip booth and collected 2. 1 said 12.5 @ 123, the other said 17.5 at 77.

Wideband saved me again on that run. After burnout I noticed lean. Kept a keen eye on afr's, sure enough under boost was too lean. I had figured the boost feed for FPR had come off, and I was correct, pulled up to check and it was flapping in the breeze.

Every modified boosted car should have a wideband IMO. Cheap insurance.

Engine out?

Nope not engine out. Will sling it and slide the mounts out and install the slimlines :P

Got to the end of the quarter, slowing down, tried to shift from 4th to 3rd and it wouldn't go. Perma stuck in 4th. Was working my way into the launches having never been on MT's before. Didn't feel like I had a single clean run unfortunately. Only made 1 trip to the timeslip booth and collected 2. 1 said 12.5 @ 123, the other said 17.5 at 77.

Wideband saved me again on that run. After burnout I noticed lean. Kept a keen eye on afr's, sure enough under boost was too lean. I had figured the boost feed for FPR had come off, and I was correct, pulled up to check and it was flapping in the breeze.

Every modified boosted car should have a wideband IMO. Cheap insurance.

100% agree on that ^

Is on my to do list as well (EFI also recommend it too)

so many more parts, so little spare cash............quick off to the for sale of parts thread

Yep, still got a free pass that expires December from a time when test and tune was rained out.

Bought an open face helmet for $40 yesterday since the full face one got too hot on Saturday.

I'll go back out as soon as Sneaky Pete decides to run his car.

Hey mate, where did you get your helmet from. And how did the horse run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...