Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys n gals ...

Recently purchased a series 1 r33 gtst in regional WA off a guy who had attempted to fix it but made an absolute mess if it. Purchased for 2200 not running - spent 1500, running. Lol

So it's unregistered still and there is a burnout comp on Saturday night in the middle of the speedway ring on a brand new concrete pad.

I still haven't fitted the front bar n headlights I purchased and am gunna leave them off. I've got a fresh set of stockies on steelies and have changed the oil and filter. Coolant is good and I don't wanna touch it as it has no air locks and why mess with something what's not broken or f**ked.

Apart from a cannon exhaust the car is completely stock, any tips from any one with burnout comp experience with r33 rb25det.... Oh it's a manual aswell I forgot to mention that.

Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442836-r33-burnout-comp/
Share on other sites

1- totally prepared to kill it, it's just a bit if fun seriously

2- dan ... Yes I agree with you, but like I said it's all just a bit of fun seriously it's where I work in the middle of the pilbra it's not a serious car if mine, drift events are a joy of mine back over east.

3- all I'm really after is any little tips that aren't completly obvious. - adding oil had slipped my mind tho so thank you :)

You have a high chance of the engine, or at least turbo going bang. I'd put money on the turbo going before the engine, especially if it's the stock turbo. The ceramic wheels on them don't like excessive heat, and in a burnout comp it will get red hot (it will literally be glowing).

But if you're prepared to kill it then why ask for tips? Just go out, keep your right foot to the floor until either the tyres out engine go bang. Just start in second gear to get as much smoke as possible and you're set

4k just to blow it up doing shitty burnouts in a burnout comp....what a waste...

anyway the stock RB doesn't hold up well to burnouts....

head design means all the oil floods the head and cant drain back quick enough..you starve your bearings in the bottom end and boom....its dead...

As well as that they dont really do a great burnout with stock power anyway and I'd honestly say find something better to do with it...like race or drift..

you want burnouts buy an old JZ soarer or a busted Ls1

Put a decent sized (600CCA) battery in it, if you don't, you might run out of spark, if it lasts that long!!! Wire the A/C thermo fan up to a switch. Hit the switch just before you start the burnout!

Take the bonnet off, & if you can (I know you don't want to do this, but there are plenty of correct bleeding threads on here) remove the thermostat for more flow.

Actually, You should PM buddy.duncanson & his alter ego, budskin1. He is an R33 GTST burnout master! His doesn't overheat, regardless of what his temp gauge says! Ask Superben, He knows the guy too! LOL! (sorry Ben!?!)

if it has the stock dump pipe off the turbo its going to go boom. also likely if it has a stock cat (just because it has a connon doesn't mean the rest of the exhaust was upgraded).


if it has any of this do it a huge favour and get a 3" dump pipe for the even and remove the rest of the exhaust.


Also remove the bonnet and heat shield off the turbo if possible.



if it is running the stock computer you might find she will take it without too much trouble as its a pretty soft 'tune' and has knock and temp protection.


if its a tuned vehicle, particularly nistune (no knock detection/protection), then it is going to get hurt more.



As for in the skid, try not to just have it bouncing off the limiter. 4-6k in second gear is the sweet spot for an Rb25 burnout :yes:




Do take video. everyone loves a skid whether they will admit it or not. And kudos to you for doing it in a legal and responsible place. Go hard mate.


Edited by jjman
  • Like 2

haha, have you or anybody you know actually got a tune to work properly with nistune + knock detection on an r33?

often it is pitched as having the same benefits as a stock ecu + systems but it is one of its many faults and problems...

heat shield off + bonnet off wont cook wiring unless the wiring that is running thru there is loose. I certainly wouldn't recommend it for permanent use + bonnet on.

Edited by jjman

Ok. Forgot this is on an r33, which nistune don't directly support.

What does the power fc do about knock? Flash a light?

Seeing as you mentioned it, rather than leave it simply implying there are other issues would you care to explain the other nistune shortcomings? No vct switching when used on a 33 , again not actually using the correct ecu on the car and easily worked around.

Anyway, I want skid vids.

yeah power fc flashes a light. so at least its something. also it logs the knock levels/events from memory :P

have a look on some other threads on the nistune stuff as its a can of worms and a complex issue so don't want to hijack this thread with it. it also of course depends on whether you use a z32 (incompatibility issues) or r32 (no vct etc) ecu for the purpose.

I hope you have some cheap chinese tyres for the skids so they squeal nice n loud n also don't last too long. be nice to get several skidz out of the R33 :)

Edited by jjman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...