Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's so cool. Sounds like I'll give it a try one day. I like the ideas of how it sounds guys. A whole 50 degrees. Yep that would help the response for sure. I just don't like the price of the hks unit. Also the fact that it's variable was a good point to bring up. I'll definitely check this out for my future street gtr. Retro fitting the the VQ25 until to fit that also interesting idea. Has anyone seen this done. If it can even be done at half the price would be a good new topic to start.

It could almost be done for free if you had the tools. Tuning it may be a little harder. Not sure if you would need the cam position sensor for feedback...

It has never even been looked at afaik.

As sweet as it sounds in theory, in reality I bet it would be an overly expensive mod that would make tuning more difficult as well as bring up problems and gremlins.

If it was me id spend the money on really good turbos that best suit the desired outcome, other supporting mods (good actuators, ebc, pipes etc) as well as really good tuning.

As sweet as it sounds in theory, in reality I bet it would be an overly expensive mod that would make tuning more difficult as well as bring up problems and gremlins.

If it was me id spend the money on really good turbos that best suit the desired outcome, other supporting mods (good actuators, ebc, pipes etc) as well as really good tuning.

If it were me it would cost nothing to set it up mechanically. I just have no idea how to actuate it properly.

VCT on the other hand is easy to actuate.

You can set your cams up however you like, but you can never have response and power, just something in between. If you had driven my car with the cams actuating then not, you would realise the difference 40 degrees advance/retard makes to efficiency and spool.

You could always put an RB25neo in there. :P

As we have discussed, that is a kit to hand it to you on a plate. All you need is a VCT actuator and a good fabricator/engineer to shove it in there, no need to spend 7k unless you wanted to sell multiple kits off yourself.

meh, who needs vct when you have 3L!

esp a built 3L with E85 n a sweet turbo on it!

Do you have a 3l?

I have a 2530 neo in my stage a and there's no way I would do without vct.

no but iv driven one (25/30) a bit that was fully built, very well tuned and putting down 500hpatw.

I couldn't complain about the torque curve at all... now thinking back I cannot remember if it did or did not have the VCT. maybe it did...

but this is a slightly different equation. as the OP was regarding GTRs with VCT. For a 25 head and the fact it was already there I would indeed put the effort in to retain it, even in a 2530 build. For GTR's /26 head, and the cost of getting it in and working, no I would not. Hence saying I would spend the money on some other aspects of the car.

Edited by jjman

Response is a pretty big aspect of how a car drives. It would help with midrange response and power which is worth more imo than top end on a road car. What if it could be done for $500, would it be worth it then? Perhaps someone should look into it further and work out exactly what's needed, and what it would cost to be made in bulk. The market is definitely there for a short production run I would think, especially if the positive results could be proven. If I had a head here I would look into it myself.

I guess it comes down to how cashed up you are, and how early you want the 26 to spool.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...