Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU,

I have a 4 gauge wiring kit that needs to run from the battery in the engine bay to the amp in the boot. If anyone has this set up, I'd appreciate if I could drop in and have a look where you ran the cables from the engine bay, and how you mounted the amp in the boot.

I understand most run their wires through a 'hidden' gap near the driver side wheel well, but I'd like to have a look first if it's convenient for anyone. I'm in Newington, so if anyone is nearby (up to say a half hour drive, i suppose?) and has this wiring done on an R34 GTT, I'd love to hear from you

Cheers!

Mick

unfortunately the R34 has the battery on the driver's side instead of the passenger side, so that means you will need to run your power cable along with the rear harness (which isn't ideal).

Run from the battery, into the quarter panel along the harness over the wheel arch then into the cabin through that thick grommet...

Follow that through and line up against the harness running to the rear, cable tying along the way so it's all neat.

Mount amp either on that hump OR on the back seat

Fuse as close as possible to the battery

Earth to anywhere in the boot with a decent sized bolt

easy

  • Like 1

Yeah, i have done mine. As above, through drivers side wheel arch was all power cables.. All speaker wires went down passenger side. I have 2 12" subs in boot with amp mounted behind them.

Loads of cable tying and youll be alright. I'm in Penrith area however have the car apart at the moment so cant drive out to see you. If you wanted to come out and take a look let me know.

Edited by Exodus01

Hey Kyle, I actually came to look at your R33 towards the end of last year, came with my mate and his white S15 - thanks heaps for the offer!

Did you end up taking the wheel and splash guards off to get the wires through?

Ah sweet man, nah didnt have to pull guards off. Theres a grommet you should be able to get to. I've just left my second job so im free weekends now if you need to come out.

Maybe i could come help you when your ready to do it. Either way man

Got a friend named Ryley

HyperSound

U2 1 Roslyn St Liverpool

98222332

www.facebook.com/hypersoundcaraudio

...can mention my name

Not sure if he'll come to you - or that you're close enough to him.

Got a friend named Ryley

HyperSound

U2 1 Roslyn St Liverpool

98222332

www.facebook.com/hypersoundcaraudio

...can mention my name

Not sure if he'll come to you - or that you're close enough to him.

Mick, have you posted in or checked out the Car Audio and Security section??? Link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/9-car-audio-security/

Thank you very much for the input, guys - much appreciated! Kyle has kindly offered to help me get through the firewall, and he's only a 20 minute drive down the M4. I did ask a question earlier in the audio thread and got the answers i'm looking for (plus i'm a stringent researcher/googler - I ask all of my stupid questions on the forums) I'm confident with all of the other wiring for the subs. It's not an urgent job either, happy to wait. Cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...