Wtb: Built 30 Bottom End

[Daz]

Looking for a built 30 bottom end that will go onto a 26 head. Preferably Melbourne

[steve200b]

Look in the for sale section one was on there a few days ago

[scotty nm35]

I asked around, no-one I know with one Daz.

Why don't you just stroke the motor you have? Probably take less time than trying to mod the 30 to fit, and at least your lower gearbox bolts will fit that way.

[GTRPSI]

Not so easy as just buying a ready made built bottom end......

Is it going into a GTR?

If so there is much more involved than just getting any old built one.

Oil pickup mods, spacer plate, engine block mods for the spacer plate to bolt up and to clear the factory exhaust manifolds, sump rear bolt holes need to be welded up and repositioned, timing chain tensioner needs to be moved, block needs to be with oil and water feeds.

And if you want to get serious about "built" there is a long "other" list, there's built to say its forged and there's built to say its really built to handle a GTR pushing power, 2 different things.

For example our RB26/30 also has a partial grout fill to support the block for 4wd launches and provide extra cylinder bracing (they love splitting between cyl 3 & 4), main bearing tunnels are replicated to take RB26 bearings for extra oiling from the rear of the bearing shell, crank is grub screwed, rods used have squirters because RB30's dont have them on the block like RB26's, pistons are ceramic coated to assist with pulling heat away from the pistons because of the lack of those squirters, oil feeds drilled out to 8mm, oil returns out to 10mm, block internally deburred and coated to assist oil draining, sump modded for extra oil draining from rear to front, deepened, trap doors, breather fittings, modded ARP studs for the crank girdle to clear the 4WD tube, girdle drilled and tapped to take the GTR windage trays.

I could go on....there's more.....

Yes you can save a packet buying a basic built R30, but built how?

Most likely will be a stock motor with just forged pistons and rods for a VL, wont even bolt together without the block to adapter plate work and oil pickup mods mentioned that could have been done starting from scratch.

And if its a R32 GTR, have fun closing the bonnet, as i said, lots more than meets the eye.

Get a builder to do it from scratch, or go stroker if its a RB26.

Was talking to a engine builder about it today who asked me what was involved in the conversion in detail....showed him the pics, explained the details and issues and work arounds.....his eyebrows went up.....now he properly understands the conversion....will be coming over to see mine in detail if needed or asking me along the way....

You know who that was Scotty.

Edited June 3, 2014 by GTRPSI

[scotty nm35]

Yes Peter, I hope you didn't give him a heart attack before the evo is on the road...

[GTRPSI]

Nah, hes bullet proof and a damn good engine builder, he just needed to see the unseen small details, my parting words to him today were talking the owner into a stroker and save both yourselves a world of pain.

Or at least buy A B and C for the build to minimize the fab and custom work. (ie not like the way we did)

Depending on how far the owner wants to go it can me done with minimal pain, weld and reposition the rear sump holes (you could probably do that yourself), buy a proengines adapter plate with pickup already made, just extend it a little if going deeper sump (again something you could do) follow the templates for the grinding, upper deck takes 10 minutes with a angle grinder, tensioner can be done while the blocks being machined, internally its up to them, main key point is use the nitto rods with the built in squirters.

The rest is really how far they want to go.....you dont need to use ARP main studs, the windage trays, RB26 main bearings, partial grout fill the block or open the oil feeds and drains (maybe do the drains...).....depends on how far it gets taken, the power to reliability goal.....

What we are building is probably totally different to what his customer needs.

[KiwiRS4T]

Looking for a built 30 bottom end that will go onto a 26 head. Preferably Melbourne

As others have said from built block to awd there is a bit to do. If you have loads of money Rips In Rotorua will build you whatever you want to the HP level you require!

http://www.ripsracing.com/rips-services.html

[Daz]

Thanks for the advice boys.

Yeah looks like when the motor comes out I will evaluate what to do.

Who built your motor GTRPSI?

[Daz]

Also generally what is a rb26 blocks limit before it cracks?

[GTRPSI]

Lets just say im building it myself with Barry from Edge motorworks finger prints all over it, hes a mate of ours, we help out each other.

The guy builds some serious Hp RB and 2JZ's.....

If you want to step up a level in block strength get a inch to inch and a half of grout fill in the block, next step up is a N1 block, next step up again in a N1 block with partial grout fill if staying 26.

Edited June 4, 2014 by GTRPSI

[Daz]

Cheers spoke to Barry yesterday top bloke

[GTRPSI]

Speaking of the devil, saw him assembling a Mitsubishi engines oil pump and about to bolt it on today in the engine room when i popped in.

I wonder whos crap that was?

Must have been your build he was talking about then Daz., either which way you go with your build, your in good hands.

Edited June 4, 2014 by GTRPSI

[scotty nm35]

Ooo, nice.