Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi mate, when i still had my V36 I had issues with the windows after I replaced a battery.

Give this a shot, it might work for you as well:

* put the ignition to "ON"

* push the buttons down to open the windows & hold this for about 5 seconds after the windows wind all the way down

* push the window buttons up to close the windows & keep holding the buttons for about 5 seconds after the windows wind all the way up

After I did this my windows worked fine for me.

Let me know how you go

Got too excited, just tried and now it works!! you're a legend!!

Did u had any issues with Slip, BA, ABS lights coming on the dash? do u have a fix for this aswell??

Brake fluid levels is ok, brakes has been bleed fine

You are a legend!!! :cheers:

And I don't mean a dodgy old mans Honda... :yes:

Hi mate, when i still had my V36 I had issues with the windows after I replaced a battery.

Give this a shot, it might work for you as well:

* put the ignition to "ON"

* push the buttons down to open the windows & hold this for about 5 seconds after the windows wind all the way down

* push the window buttons up to close the windows & keep holding the buttons for about 5 seconds after the windows wind all the way up

After I did this my windows worked fine for me.

Let me know how you go

all good, happy to help. :)

For the record I'm not 100% sure if the method I use is the proper handbook method, I just went from memory on a trick a service manager showed me on a 2006 350z when I was working in car sales, but hey it works ahaha

I didn't have issues with my dash lights coming on... try resetting the ecu & see if that works

Mine was clicking the door central locking for no apparent reason after charging the battery up. It was clicking like pretty constantly but not actually locking or unlocking the door. Really weird. Anyway i disconnected the main drivers window control with the central locking button removed the circuit board and sprayed it with contact cleaner its been fine since.... Anybody know anything about this?

It was deff that circuit board as with it disconnected it stopped straight away. I could still lock and unlock the car with the key fob.

Hi mate, when i still had my V36 I had issues with the windows after I replaced a battery.

Give this a shot, it might work for you as well:

* put the ignition to "ON"

* push the buttons down to open the windows & hold this for about 5 seconds after the windows wind all the way down

* push the window buttons up to close the windows & keep holding the buttons for about 5 seconds after the windows wind all the way up

After I did this my windows worked fine for me.

Let me know how you go

hmm i have this problem too but it doesnt work for me :( it goes down automatically but have to hold up to bring the window up. plus my window drops when the door is open. hmm

  • 5 years later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 11 months later...

Just an FYI, and to bump this for others. I had 2 problems with my passenger side electric window on my 2008 370HT

1. When I closed the door with the window up, it would actually leave the window open about 2 centimetres. I had to manually go over to the drivers side, and wind the window up/closed.

2. When I held the up for the passenger window (drivers side or passenger side control), the auto wind up did not function.

I found another thread on another site, and it suggested the same as above, but 10 seconds hold when down, winding up and holding while its at the highest for 10 seconds. I did these steps, and now both problems are resolved.:91_thumbsup:

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...