Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, I have a 1998 R34 coupe and im having some weird problems.

The other week i got in to drive it and when i unlocked it problems started,

1. The tacho and speedo dont work,
2. The bell chime for door didnt chime,
3. The interior light stays on,
4. The passenger door wont lock with the button on the remote or drivers side panel.

It still starts and drives fine,
I disconnected the battery and reset the ECU which worked, but then it happened again and again now that trick only works sometimes.

Any ideas? Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444407-r34-electrical-issues/
Share on other sites

I reckon you should get it checked by an automotive electrician. Sounds like brittle cables between the battery and the accessories. Could also be a shorted PCB. I had a similar problem with my r34 in regards to the power windows, ended up being brittle wiring on the drivers side, causing the passenger side window to wind down but not up. Yours is a bit more complicated, i dont think its something that will just go away.

Hello, I have a 1998 R34 coupe and im having some weird problems.

The other week i got in to drive it and when i unlocked it problems started,

1. The tacho and speedo dont work,

2. The bell chime for door didnt chime,

3. The interior light stays on,

4. The passenger door wont lock with the button on the remote or drivers side panel.

It still starts and drives fine,

I disconnected the battery and reset the ECU which worked, but then it happened again and again now that trick only works sometimes.

Any ideas? Cheers

Tacho + speedo: Take out the dash, check for lose plugs.

Interior light and bell chime for door could be linked (as i'm guessing with the switch on "DOOR" it stays on?, but "OFF" it turns off?) Guessing it is the switch inside the door playing up. Where that little rubber piece is.

Passenger door: Does it lock when you flick the door lock internally, like the actual switch? Does it unlock with the controls on the passenger door?

Tacho + speedo: Take out the dash, check for lose plugs.

Interior light and bell chime for door could be linked (as i'm guessing with the switch on "DOOR" it stays on?, but "OFF" it turns off?) Guessing it is the switch inside the door playing up. Where that little rubber piece is.

Passenger door: Does it lock when you flick the door lock internally, like the actual switch? Does it unlock with the controls on the passenger door?

I was under the impression that its all just one big problem?

#@crissy

Did these arise all at the same time? Or did the car just start having more and more problems? If its the second question then id go with what sleptema suggested.

I was under the impression that its all just one big problem?

#@crissy

Did these arise all at the same time? Or did the car just start having more and more problems? If its the second question then id go with what sleptema suggested.

I don't think they can be related, or he would be having issues with the entire car, not just those 3-4 things. I believe the tacho and speedo gain their signals from the Engine computer, where the door lock and chime is body control computer. Tacho gets its feed from the CAS, which can in no way be related to the door locks. And if it was the ECU, I doubt the car would be running smoothly. I don't want to jump to ecu replacement when it is most likely small shit,

The ecu gets the speed signal from the speedo.

The tacho gets its signal from the ecu.

Weird hey.

And the ECU gets is signal from the CAS. The speedo gets its signal from the WSS yes, the ECU doesn't read the speedo, the gauge is an output from other sensors.

Sensor (input) -> ECU (processer) -> Actuator (output - in this case, gauge)

I'm saying the tacho and speedo are more than likely related, but the tacho/speedo combo isn't related to the door locks as they are on completely different circuits.

Edited by sleptema

And the ECU gets is signal from the CAS. The speedo gets its signal from the WSS yes, the ECU doesn't read the speedo, the gauge is an output from other sensors.

Sensor (input) -> ECU (processer) -> Actuator (output - in this case, gauge)

I'm saying the tacho and speedo are more than likely related, but the tacho/speedo combo isn't related to the door locks as they are on completely different circuits.

Yes, the ECU gets it signal from the CAS, the ECU drives the Tacho.

The speedo gets it's signal from the gearbox output shaft, the same place as the ECU.

The wheel speed sensors are traced back to the ABS/Attessa ECU. The only time the ENGINE ECU references WSS is during traction loss (traction control for rear wheel drive only).

  • 2 months later...

Hey, Just wondering if you got anywhere with resolving this crissy? They are all connected in some way, as I have exactly the same issue. I have narrowed it down to the either the ODO/Speedo/Tacho cluster or one of the cables running into it, as generally by giving it a bit of hard tap or removing and reconnecting one of the cables from behind the cluster the issue goes away (until next time). It's funny when starting the car as you don't get the reverse beep or have the doors lock, and then all of a sudden everything happens at once, like a delayed reaction.

Edited by Phyco

Narrowed mine down to a contact issue on the TK20 Brown Connector (fuel gauge side) at the back of the cluster, as it has inputs/outputs for all the affected items (Door Locks, Reverse Chime, Speedo, Tacho, Engine Temp etc) just in case that is of any help to anyone else in future!

  • 7 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
×
×
  • Create New...