Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone with past experience or has some tuning knowledge could give me their thoughts.

Would there be much advantage/gain vs cost by fitting a power fc or getting ecu nistuned on an R33 gtr that's virtually stock apart from 3"front pipe back exhaust and raising the boost (stock turbos)

If so, compared to completely stock setup, what sort of power increase/benefits would I be likely to see with...

*removal of boost restrictor, exhaust and either of these ecu's

*removal of boost restrictor, exhaust keeping factory ecu?

Thanks guys

HUGE ADVANTAGE not only to power, but also your wallet :)

stock vs nistune 32 33 & 34 You should see a gain of 50-100k's per tank when cruising. If you're travelling around 500k's per week you would make back your money within 6 months easily.

Yours being a gtr, you probably don't do too many k's. So it's not much of a worry.

But power gain i know for the above and min mods you could expect anything up to 40rwkw

Def worth it for sure.

I gained approx 50kw at the wheels after going from the stock R34 ECU to Power FC (now at 260AWKW give or take).

Fuel consumption, meh about the same as stock, slightly better on cruise (about 13 L per 100km)

Def worth it for sure.

I gained approx 50kw at the wheels after going from the stock R34 ECU to Power FC (now at 260AWKW give or take).

Fuel consumption, meh about the same as stock, slightly better on cruise (about 13 L per 100km)

Did you have to get it tuned also or was it just a plug and play with a default map?

Interesting question livewire, I'm trying to figure out an ECU path as well without going crazy with mods.

Edited by Sovereign337

Did you have to get it tuned also or was it just a plug and play with a default map?

Interesting question livewire, I'm trying to figure out an ECU path as well without going crazy with mods.

Yes, had to get it tuned.

In practise, yes it is plug and play, I.E you can simply plug it in and drive away, BUT you would be stupid to boost it with the stock Power FC map... Apexi run some stupid high timing from default.

Not knowing your future power goals for the vehicle, I'd say stick with your stock ecu.

The only reason to upgrade the ecu is when chasing hp.

As for fuel savings when driving a GTR ????

I'd have to be the steadiest GTR driver on the road, highway cruising I get 10L per100 consistently.

Stock ecu and the Rb26, I'm never going to see fuel usage down in single digits.

The GTSt used to do 9 to 9.5 despite having a lot more hp on tap, the Rb25 with VVT is simply more economical at cruising speeds.

If you've got a heavy foot there's no miracles, economy is all about driving style.

A PFc will set you back around $800 and much the same again for the tune.

You'll never see that $1600+ returned in fuel savings, so forget that argument.

But if your plan on hp upgrades, money doesn't come into the equation, it all disappears.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

I have a nistune but the closest tuner is 1500km. There is someone here that is comfortable with power fc, what would it take for him to modify my nistune to suit new set up? Or should I just use a power fc? I'd prefer to stick with the nistune since it has knock control and there can be up to 25c temp difference between summer and winter here.

Current tune is for n1 turbos, intake, exhaust and 15psi. I would like to install 680cc injectors and 16-18psi on nismo 0.60/0.64 turbos.

Cheers if anyone is able to help out

i would recommend if you have some spare coin to get the tuning tools you'd need and learn to do it yourself. follow some of the courses over at www.learntotune.com . at that distance you'd spend that much money in travel... I assume running nistune you are still running MAF's if so these should handle your temperature change...but running higher boost will put you in a different and possibly untuned area of your map....

And yes, still runnings mafs

But if it's just a matter of downloading the software and live tuning via consult or other cable I'm more than happy to get my buddy with Pfc experience to tweak it for me

nistune vs powerfc is 6 in 1 half a doz in the other....you need the tools first..... for nistune you need the cable and software (which is licensed to the nistune serial i believe) the Powerfc will need either the Power Excel software (crap to get) or the FC datalogit.

after that you need a way to measure Air fuel ratio and to listen to knock levels (detonation)

the powerfc will still show you what the factory sensors are picking up....if you are getting knock you will most likely have to reduce timing.

a dyno is still more accurate for tuning but these tools will get you in the ball park and most of the way there....fuel mapping first then ignition timing.

Might have to run with the power fc. I have access to data logit and the fella here with it has tuned his so mine shouldn't be too hard for him.

Was kinda hoping to stay with the Nistune, but if the license to tune it doesn't out way the advantages of having it then so be it.

Yep. Exactly as Badgaz said.

Something to condsider though is the factory knock sensors are old and probably crapped out. I certainly wouldnt rely on them.

A benefit of Nistune is it looks stock, and retains all of the nice things the stock ecu does (cold start etc)

Might have to run with the power fc. I have access to data logit and the fella here with it has tuned his so mine shouldn't be too hard for him.

Was kinda hoping to stay with the Nistune, but if the license to tune it doesn't out way the advantages of having it then so be it.

yep thats pretty much where i started...i have a powerfc in my r33 and my wifes r32 gtr. feel free to flick me your maps/logs if you want another eye cast over them, i have a datalogit also.

Ben c34 I'm not too fussed on looks. You won't get your ass dragged through hell for having a power fc out here. Hell, it just cost me $125 for the inspections and certification to put the rb26 into my 180sx

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...