Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, so I am just after a bit of advice about this problem of mine. Last year I did a forged rebuild on my rb25 after burning out exhaust valves and scoring the bore. Since the rebuild my atr43g3 is 1000rpm laggier than before the build.

I get 19psi at 5000rpm, whereas I used to get that at 4000 before the build. I am thinking it may have to do with my cam timing since I had the head skimmed and the block decked. I dropped the standard cams back in, lined up the marks but didn't adjust my exhaust cam gear so it is currently set to 0 degrees. The car sits at 18mmhg at idle when it used to be at 22-24mmhg before the build as well.

Other than the turbo lag the car runs smooth, makes 301rwkw but only sees 220rwkw at 5000rpm, making it a nugget off boost.

I am thinking of retarding the exhaust 2 degrees tomorrow, but thought I'd get your opinions before I do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444721-atr43g3-lag-monster-after-rebuild/
Share on other sites

Skimming the head and block would retard the cam timing, but only very slightly.

Regarding the exhaust cam will mean you will pull even less vacuum.

I would consider advancing both cams and seeing what happens.

Is vct functioning correctly?

Last year I did a forged rebuild on my rb25 after burning out exhaust valves and scoring the bore. Since the rebuild my atr43g3 is 1000rpm laggier than before the build.

If all is mechanically ok, there is a chance the high exhaust temps from the failed valves have warped the rear housing on the Hypergear, and now the wastegate puck won't seal fully. I have seen this before, it's not hard to check if the back of the turbo is flat still.

  • Like 1

Well 2 months ago I fried my power fc when the Vct solenoid died. Got it repaired and put a new solenoid in, I can see it switching through the hand controller. Guess I'll disconnect it and take for a drive.

As for the wastegate, I've got close to 5mm of preload on it and have fabbed up a screamer for the internal gate, doesnt creep open it just snaps open and makes a shitload of noise.

One last thing, if I were to adjust the cam timing is it going to throw out my tune at all?

It doesn't matter how much preload you put on the puck, if the back of the turbo is only a little warped, it will never make a seal.

Cam timing would need to be out a fair bit... Yes it will affect the tune.

The wastegate flapper has a smaller tolerance of play that is to compensate for any changes might be during heat expansion and contraction of the turbine housing. beside Jay, your rear housing was cut and welded to suit an external gate.

This particular car has an external screamer. For 1000RPMs difference, The take would be half of the 38mm gate. It will be making a very noticeable sound. OP have replied on an earlier post as the screamer does not make any noises till the gate opens. Plus this behavior was not present after the new engine was assembled. In my opinion The waste gate assembly on this turbocharger is unrelated.

I'm not sure how bad the older engine was damaged. If bit of failed engine ended up in the turbine housing, then it might be accounted for a damaged turbine wheel. It could rise the lag issue also, how ever on the same time it is not capable of making any power.

I have experienced similar issues in the past when my VCT was dis-engaged, since it has been previously burnt, functionality of the part might be questionable. Simply unplug the solenoid and feel for the changes in drive ability. No differences usually means malfunction in the VCT assembly.

The adjustable exhaust gear makes pretty much no differences working with stock cams, It was the first thing I've tried improving boost response and that was a waste of dyno time.

So vct definitely works, so I can rule that out.

Only other thing I can think of, and will check tomorrow, is that I changed the exhaust after the rebuild. It now has a nismo kit from cat back and now has a mid muffler and oval rear opposed to the cannon that it had before.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...