Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, so I am just after a bit of advice about this problem of mine. Last year I did a forged rebuild on my rb25 after burning out exhaust valves and scoring the bore. Since the rebuild my atr43g3 is 1000rpm laggier than before the build.

I get 19psi at 5000rpm, whereas I used to get that at 4000 before the build. I am thinking it may have to do with my cam timing since I had the head skimmed and the block decked. I dropped the standard cams back in, lined up the marks but didn't adjust my exhaust cam gear so it is currently set to 0 degrees. The car sits at 18mmhg at idle when it used to be at 22-24mmhg before the build as well.

Other than the turbo lag the car runs smooth, makes 301rwkw but only sees 220rwkw at 5000rpm, making it a nugget off boost.

I am thinking of retarding the exhaust 2 degrees tomorrow, but thought I'd get your opinions before I do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444721-atr43g3-lag-monster-after-rebuild/
Share on other sites

Skimming the head and block would retard the cam timing, but only very slightly.

Regarding the exhaust cam will mean you will pull even less vacuum.

I would consider advancing both cams and seeing what happens.

Is vct functioning correctly?

Last year I did a forged rebuild on my rb25 after burning out exhaust valves and scoring the bore. Since the rebuild my atr43g3 is 1000rpm laggier than before the build.

If all is mechanically ok, there is a chance the high exhaust temps from the failed valves have warped the rear housing on the Hypergear, and now the wastegate puck won't seal fully. I have seen this before, it's not hard to check if the back of the turbo is flat still.

  • Like 1

Well 2 months ago I fried my power fc when the Vct solenoid died. Got it repaired and put a new solenoid in, I can see it switching through the hand controller. Guess I'll disconnect it and take for a drive.

As for the wastegate, I've got close to 5mm of preload on it and have fabbed up a screamer for the internal gate, doesnt creep open it just snaps open and makes a shitload of noise.

One last thing, if I were to adjust the cam timing is it going to throw out my tune at all?

It doesn't matter how much preload you put on the puck, if the back of the turbo is only a little warped, it will never make a seal.

Cam timing would need to be out a fair bit... Yes it will affect the tune.

The wastegate flapper has a smaller tolerance of play that is to compensate for any changes might be during heat expansion and contraction of the turbine housing. beside Jay, your rear housing was cut and welded to suit an external gate.

This particular car has an external screamer. For 1000RPMs difference, The take would be half of the 38mm gate. It will be making a very noticeable sound. OP have replied on an earlier post as the screamer does not make any noises till the gate opens. Plus this behavior was not present after the new engine was assembled. In my opinion The waste gate assembly on this turbocharger is unrelated.

I'm not sure how bad the older engine was damaged. If bit of failed engine ended up in the turbine housing, then it might be accounted for a damaged turbine wheel. It could rise the lag issue also, how ever on the same time it is not capable of making any power.

I have experienced similar issues in the past when my VCT was dis-engaged, since it has been previously burnt, functionality of the part might be questionable. Simply unplug the solenoid and feel for the changes in drive ability. No differences usually means malfunction in the VCT assembly.

The adjustable exhaust gear makes pretty much no differences working with stock cams, It was the first thing I've tried improving boost response and that was a waste of dyno time.

So vct definitely works, so I can rule that out.

Only other thing I can think of, and will check tomorrow, is that I changed the exhaust after the rebuild. It now has a nismo kit from cat back and now has a mid muffler and oval rear opposed to the cannon that it had before.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
×
×
  • Create New...