Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I'm thinking about changing my turbo setup from low mount hks gtrs turbos to a single hks t51r kai, my question is what would this turbo be like to drive on the street? When would it roughly hit full boost? Would it light up four wheels once it hits full boost taking off in first and second gear? I'm asking these questions because I don't want a super laggy car or a car that is hopeless to drive from to much wheel spin, my car is a r32 gtr and my motor is a 26/30 and my head has over sized valves, port work and 280 cams with 10.5 lift. Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444805-t51r-on-the-street/
Share on other sites

Nytsky would be the best person to ask, he has a t51r on a 25/30 in an r33 gtst

The other thing to consider about is in recent times turbo technology has come leaps and bounds and there are turbos that will make t51r power with greatly reduced lag. But it's your car and you have the final say

Dude you have MORE THAN ENOUGH to buy something newer and nicer than that old turd burger! If you dont want a super laggy turbo then this ISN'T the turbo for you! If you think $3300 is cheap for an OLD school used turbo it isnt lol.. If you have $3300 to burn now save another $700 and get a new 6466 and manifold and gates etc. :D

I have a T51R on my 26, no two ways about it, it is laggy, but it does have a very rich tune on it which does not help the lag. With a decent tune it should be much better. At the moment it's hitting 25psi at around 5000rpm and holds strong all the way to 9000rpm.

Jez

I was thinking of maybe changing my gtrs turbos with twin low mounted gtx2863's, I'll be running e85 with a 30 bottom end as well. I like the idea of twins but I don't no if they'd produce the power I want

^^^ Now ya heading in the right direction!

Forgot about the number dude its how it makes the power!

If its a street car you want best area under the curve :)

Nothing is gayer than needing to dial up 7000rpm and 1000db of RB fury to beat a V6 commodore ;)

  • Like 1

^^^ Now ya heading in the right direction!

Forgot about the number dude its how it makes the power!

If its a street car you want best area under the curve :)

Nothing is gayer than needing to dial up 7000rpm and 1000db of RB fury to beat a V6 commodore ;)

I disagree.

Vtech is.

  • Like 1

The bottom end is forged je pistons with h beam rods, nitto head gasket, nitto oil pump , with all the other oil mods, 9 litre sump, balanced with a ati balancer and a direct racing twin plate clutch( top if the range) the head has double valve springs with 280 cams with 10.5 lift , 1mm oversized valves, inlet and exhaust ported, exhaust is 3.5 inch stainless with hks dump pipes and hks pulse low mount manifolds , ecu is a haltec plug in platinum pro, splitfire coil packs with a hks igniter .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...