Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, I have been slowly building up an R33 Gtst track car over the past 5 or so years. I feel that the car is just about where it needs to be in terms of upgraded/strengthened/adjustable parts now but i am having trouble dropping my lap times mostly due to oversteer.

I am hoping there is some knowledge out there that you might be able to share with me.

Here is a video of how the car goes at the moment which also should give you an idea of its handling characteristics.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeUwsz22pOU

and here is a basic rundown on the car and setup.

It is a 96 S2 Gtst with a steel wheel holset core and about 240kw

Interior

- Stripped interior about 180kgs removed

- 8 point roll cage

Handling

- Bilstein shocks valved for track work

- Springs 350 front 550 rear

- Ikeya formula front upper (front set to 3.2 negative)

- Ikeya formula rear upper (rear set to 1.6 negative)

- Ikeya formula rear toe (pretty sure toe was set to neutral)

- Alloy subframe bushes

- Polly bushes just about everywhere else

- Nismo 2way LSD

- Hicas Lock bar

- Height adjustment set to about stock

- 20mm spacers

- Federal FZ201 semi slicks (about 34psi hot in front and 32psi in rear)

There are other RWD cars running similar setups and power to weight lapping 3-4 seconds faster, now obviously the driver is going to have a big impact here, but looking at there videos they seem to have a lot more corner grip and stability.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444856-r33-gtst-handling-advice/
Share on other sites

either im blind or you dont mention sway bars.

these are a must.,

if you do have them, soften the front sway a little, it will correct the oversteer.

just my little 2c on the limited knowledge i have.

The initial understeer is what worries me,,,gts-t's don't usually suffer from that. It's certainly not the tyres,,, FZ's are great but your tyre pressures are way different than me,,,I use on a hot day 38 all round and constantly adjust them till I get it. Zebra's on drugs,,,no way is your diff contributing,,,no way. I'm running close to 0 camber on the rears and about 4.5 on the fronts from memory. Artz is right she needs to be lowered,,,big time.

Just do little changes,,,or you will never know what fixed it.

Cheers

Neil.

The initial understeer is what worries me,,,gts-t's don't usually suffer from that.

Yeah hard to recommend changing swaybars when the car is exhibiting both under and over steer.

I found this interesting camber vs tyre pressure info that I will have a go at next track day http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handling/handling_pressure3

I will also lower it a couple of centimetres just a pain for road driving.

I am going to peg rear camber back to about 1 degree if this fixes the rear end grip then maybe i can adjust sway bars to reduce understeer (softer in the front or harder in the back although the links on the whiteline kit seem to only fit in some positions)

You stated the tyre size, but size wheels are you running front and rear? If you're running narrower front wheels and tyres, try running the same front and rear. I think you'll find it makes the handling

a lot more neutral. Also, a bit of toe out on the front will help with turn in and that corner entry understeer. Goodluck, and keep us posted.

You stated the tyre size, but size wheels are you running front and rear? If you're running narrower front wheels and tyres, try running the same front and rear. I think you'll find it makes the handling

a lot more neutral. Also, a bit of toe out on the front will help with turn in and that corner entry understeer. Goodluck, and keep us posted.

You are correct on rim size im running 8" on the front and 9" on the rear.

Interesting I need to get some lighter rims current are about 9ks a piece, will take this into account when i upgrade.

What do you reckon 9" front and rear running 255s?

this counters understeer not oversteer.

Nope, softening a front sway bar will correct understeer..so I just figured stiffening it will help with oversteer...

ED*

though if you look at the graphs below ther eis no clearcut solution really as softening and stiffening can fix it, depending on situation

I have been reading up on this all week man cause the cressy is understeering mid corner, been looking for a solution :P

Hey, I have been slowly building up an R33 Gtst track car over the past 5 or so years. I feel that the car is just about where it needs to be in terms of upgraded/strengthened/adjustable parts now but i am having trouble dropping my lap times mostly due to oversteer.

That's what I would be doing. And then, if it still has mid corner understeer, soften the front sway bar one notch.

thats what i read it as.....why are we all talking understeer now?

Also i dont think rim size is going to make alot of difference, mine felt perfectly stable with 8s and 9s..dont get me worng it will help, but i dont think it is something to really be concerned with.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...