Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I'm in the process of putting together a data acquisition package from Race Technology ( http://www.race-technology.com ) for my track-only S15 and am unsure as for how I should be approaching this. I'm wanting to run a standalone data-logging package as I haven't yet chosen what ECU I'll be using, as I still haven't figured out what engine I'll running - either a SR20DET or a LSx.

I already have a Dash2, so am looking at purchasing the following:

Is there anything I'm missing? Or should be aware of?

Any hints or tips will be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445122-race-technology-dash2-setup/
Share on other sites

Sell the dash2 and buy a Racepac IQ3, then hook it up to a CAN ready ECU (Haltech/Motec/Link).

I haven't used the analsis software for the DL1, but if it's anything like the dash2 software I don't imagine it will be any good.

Thanks for the replies guys

Sell the dash2 and buy a Racepac IQ3, then hook it up to a CAN ready ECU (Haltech/Motec/Link).

I haven't used the analsis software for the DL1, but if it's anything like the dash2 software I don't imagine it will be any good.

Why is it that the Dash2 software is no good?

It was a couple of years ago last time I used the dash2 software, but from memory setting up the voltage tables for the sensors was unbelievably hard. From memory the dash didn't read the true voltage and interpreted to it's own scale. Something that should have taken 30 mins to setup took hours.

A dash that can read sensors via CAN from the ECU makes life a lots easier. I have all my sensors wired to the ECU can run via CAN to my dash. The only things wired straight into the dash are, brake switch and fuel level

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...