Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My rebuilt turbo should be arriving from Hypergear sometime next week and I've just called my mates who removed the busted turbo to organise a time to refit it. They're still taking my calls which is a good sign! :whistling:

My friends told me to source some replacement gaskets for the intake/turbo/dump/exhaust, but some ebay and google searching hasn't turned up anything for me unfortunately.

This is the second turbo replacement on my M35 (this one is due to oil starvation - totally my fault) but I can't remember the first replacement requiring any new gaskets...

So my question is do I need new gaskets and if so how/where do I get them?

Thanks!

Glenn

Hi Glen,

These gaskets are not always replaced, although it is a good idea to ensure no leaks. The turbo manifold gasket and dump gasket can be purchased from any performance parts shop or ebay, or if you are lucky, a part shop like Auto One. Take your old one with you - its just easier - and the turbo manifold is a T3 flange gasket I think, and the dump is a common one for Nissans. All of the above are available on ebay and on google search...just don't use the word "stagea" or "m35" in your search. The intake gaskets come from Nissan, however, I just used rtv silicone on both sides of my old gasket - intake only. Good luck

Hi Glen,

These gaskets are not always replaced, although it is a good idea to ensure no leaks. The turbo manifold gasket and dump gasket can be purchased from any performance parts shop or ebay, or if you are lucky, a part shop like Auto One. Take your old one with you - its just easier - and the turbo manifold is a T3 flange gasket I think, and the dump is a common one for Nissans. All of the above are available on ebay and on google search...just don't use the word "stagea" or "m35" in your search. The intake gaskets come from Nissan, however, I just used rtv silicone on both sides of my old gasket - intake only. Good luck

No need for silicone, the old gaskets will seal up fine.

If you want to replace the T3 manifold gasket, make sure you get OEM or similar, as the thin ones on Ebay are crap. Get it from Autobarn, as they sell OEM style Permaseal MLS.

The dump gasket is not at all similar to anything, only the two VQ turbo's. I usually don't need to change these unless it was damaged in some way during disassembly.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...