Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Test drove an evo 8mr with 3"turbo back zorst, intake, filter n 18psi-stock turbo- felt meh.. Good pickup/ boost (roughly felt as powerful as r34 at 160-180 rwkw) and hard cornering- nothing as hard edged as some people make it out to be.. Noticeably Less torque at low rpms street driving than a 25neo, nice interior though not cheap n nasty.. Gearbox not too short throw as expected, its alright actually. And meh- not as exciting as I'd hoped.. Nowhere as crazy (when boost hits) as a 290kw rwd- not even close

Edited by rondofj

But much better for short fast squirts in sydney metro area streets- pickup is more instant and boosts quicker 3000ish rpms, point n shoot n corner...sort of thing no worries. With the 290kw skyline have to wait a bit longer for the hit and when it hits- you run out of road, jump lanes, go too fast waay over the limit or wrap urself around a tree- need a nice long empty stretch of private road to open er up, definitely not a busy metro area...

People do often forget that.

Most/all cars are excellent at what they were designed to do.

An XR6T or a SS commodore is actually very excellent at what it was designed to do. (especially the XR6T!)

People often make cars do things other than what they were designed to do and get a bit upset when something more suited to the task does it better.

Ronald why are you still comparing a RWD 2.5L 6 with a 590hp turbo on it to an AWD 2L 4 with a stock turbo?

Of course its not gunna feel the same! Its gunna feel composed under acceleration not skatey/taily like a RWD car its also probably 100+kg heavier than the skyline too. Which is hard to believe when driving them!

The evo you drove should have been in or around the 200kw atw zone if it had a tune with along with the exhaust and filter.

I can understand what you are saying bout how it "feels" like a 160-180kw skyline which I'd probably say is pretty close to being on the money.

But the thing is how it feels and how fast it really is are 2 different things. Remember the thing is an evo is a far more refined car than the good old skyline which is kinda deceiving on your ass dyno.

I bet if the 2 were side by side into it you maybe surprised what would end up in front.

I don't know where you test drove this car nor do I know of your driving ability but dont for a second think that "punting it" around a few corners for a few blocks gives you an indication of how "hard edged" it really is!

I can guarantee you weren't even using it to 50% of it's potential lol!

If you don't believe me come for a run through the hills in my evo and you will see what I mean! ;)

Does your car feel alot laggier than my 33 did?

Cos my car didn't ever feel like it needed wide open spaces to get the power on!

But much better for short fast squirts in sydney metro area streets- pickup is more instant and boosts quicker 3000ish rpms, point n shoot n corner...sort of thing no worries. With the 290kw skyline have to wait a bit longer for the hit and when it hits- you run out of road, jump lanes, go too fast waay over the limit or wrap urself around a tree- need a nice long empty stretch of private road to open er up, definitely not a busy metro area...

  • Like 1

Thats because you live out in the sticks with nice roads all to yourself and not a car or person in sight lol- syd metro area as we all know is a different ball game altogether-thats where the evo is better, and yes my car would be laggier than your 33- remember no E85 m8..but not by too much, its definitely a fair bit torquey punting around in low rpms than the evo.. I redlined that evo 1st to third and gave it a bit in 4th, there wasnt too much hard cornering cos of the area n traffic, but the point n shoot was tested well enough, I was disappointed cos it felt a fair bit more composed n mild than I expected-I like brutal acceleration, but yeh cant expect this from an almost stock evo even with awd and short gearing. And more refined? Nah! The 34 is much better, and this can be subjective- the evo felt just like a nice new lancer/ corolla interior wise, the momo wheel n recaros are nice though. But the exhaust note is terrible-sure everyone would agree- then again its a different car compared to a skyline and I would still get one as my next car when the times right. Or even a rz Supra

I've always felt that Evo/WRX STi with minor mods (exhaust+boost controller) feel like they accelerate harder then similar modded Skylines and Silvias. They also feel sharper around corners, but ultimately 4WD becomes boring as it feels too clinical. I also find it easier to have a relaxing drive in a skyline or even S15 then in an EVO.

Now 300 KW turbo rwd + coilovers is a different story.

My ass dyno goes off the scale when I drive car like that. It can properly scare you as you keep wondering if you will still have traction after a second or two. With minor suspension mods Skyline feels sharp enough around corners.

+ You can take your car to drift track days.

I've never been in a 300kw Evo, but I believe it will feel faster in a straight line then 300kw Skyline. Shorter gear ratios, more traction, more off/on boost feel. I doubt it will be as exciting for as long though.

Bottom line. If I want results in drag/time attack (I'm assuming you are not racing on the road) I'd go EVO and save for clutches and gearboxes.

If I want to have more exciting and overall more pleasant drive I'd get a Skyline and save for tyres :)

I believe that butt dyno and smiles/km is a big factor when it comes to tuned turbo cars. We are in it for fun and death defying / edge of space experiences (on a track hopefully).

So yeah, I guess it depends what is more fun for you

Edited by denisonnd

^^ Good point. I'm running BC BR on the softest setting and 265 T1R at back and it is still not enough. I'm getting stickier tires once these wear out.

I like having BC's as I'm into drifting. But they are the reason I haven't tried a quarter mile yet. I know my 60 foot time is not going to be pretty unless I have NT05's and even then.

Edited by denisonnd

^^ Good point. I'm running BC BR on the softest setting and 265 T1R at back and it is still not enough. I'm getting stickier tires once these wear out.

I like having BC's as I'm into drifting. But they are the reason I haven't tried a quarter mile yet. I know my 60 foot time is not going to be pretty unless I have NT05's and even then.

what spring rates do you have?

ALso any other suspension mods like traction bushes or camber arms?

before i bought my r33 i looked at evos they didnt feel any quicker than my mates my11 wrx when it was stock they were nice but not a monster by any means even the apparently 280kw 1 that i test drove wasnt that exciting gettng out of his at that point e85 tuned wrx the thing that probably turned me off apart from the cost was that they felt like my satria but quicker with better fit and finish where as i wanted a new car not a tarted up mirage yes they were faster and had 4 doors but i couldnt justify buying 1 when it felt like a expensive lancer inside

btw mates selling the wrx if your interested in that

  • Like 1

what spring rates do you have?

ALso any other suspension mods like traction bushes or camber arms?

It is a S15 Silvia with RB25DET and R33 gearbox. 8kg fr 6 kg r on softest setting. It has camber and toe arms and it doesn't have much camber.

It holds up if I floor it from a rolling start on a motorway in 2nd, but it will lose traction on back roads or where tarmac is not as good

Edited by denisonnd

^^ Good point. I'm running BC BR on the softest setting and 265 T1R at back and it is still not enough. I'm getting stickier tires once these wear out.

I like having BC's as I'm into drifting. But they are the reason I haven't tried a quarter mile yet. I know my 60 foot time is not going to be pretty unless I have NT05's and even then.

Just so you know, the 'softest' setting is not actually the softest. Its more likely to be 'bumpiest'.

Coilovers are usually produced on a generic basis. The shocks are generally made in 3 or 4 sizes and used in all different models. The adjustable valve is moreso for adjusting the damper to suit your car/springrate than it is as a 'hard-soft' setting.

You will probably find your car is a lot smoother set to 20 than it is set to 1, just try :)

Back on topic: Ron, drive that 290kw cruise liner like a man and forget about EVOs.

  • Like 1

+1 this is a common mistake.

I have some ebay coilovers on my S13 with way too much spring for the damper. The "hardest" setting is the more comfortable one. I have the least rebound with it, but it still have too stiff springs.

  • Like 1

Shall we put a 350rwkw tt supra in the mix? Yes another powerful rwd albeit a much better one that is at the gtr's level and evo's price..

I'm not a fan of going sideways, wheelspinning/ going nowhere and looking like an ass - I rather something that hooks up and is gone.

Where do I remember reading this?

A 350kw 1.5 tonne barge won't do any of this??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...