Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Since some weeks I got this metallic sound from the rear of my car. At first it only appeared on the left, meanwhile on both sides.

It appears when I start moving the car, forward and reverse. Also when changing into 2nd and start accelerating.

It does NOT appear in every gear or always at the same "time". It sounds like 2 screwdrivers hit against each other.

Also you can not "make" that sound with "shaking" the car for example, so theres nothing haning around, nothing lose or not in place

and so on. A friend of mine is mechanic but we could only check without a lft but he couldnt find anything. Not the wheels, nor the suspension, not the exhaust, not the shieldings bla bla bla

I srsly got no clue what to do, and since a week, this guy has the same problem. Actually it´s not a real problem, at least so far. But everytime I stop and keep moving again, there´s that annoying sound and ofc that´s not how the car should be so I rly wanna fix that.

Sry for bad english, and sry for not being able to explain it better ^^

Here are two short vids, in which you can hear that sound. Sry for bad quality, cellphone sucks :) When you hear it, you´ll straight know what I am talking about.

Thanks a lot

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/k6mFvU0Vq7W3yw8kBlr

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/k1Am8JdGgI3N9O8flgQ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445531-33-gtst-s2-metallic-noise/
Share on other sites

I jacked the car up and tried to shake and turn the wheels in every possible direction. Should I hear it then too? Cause there was nothing. But I´ll have a look again.

if there play in the wheel when u tried? u might not hear it unless the wheel is under load being driven

Nah I´d say nothing. I turned and shook em in every possible way. Like said before, if you would hear it while checking, you´d also hear it while the whole is getting kinda rumbled by driving over a curb for example, I guess. But that doesn´t happen

Somebody meant while driving by might be something to do with the "struts" ( if I got the correct Translation ). I can´t see how this could be oO If, it would be more centre of the car, not obviously down and rear, correct?

A stainless exhaust can make a similar noise when tapped, on take off the exhaust will tend to move/vibrate more

also if there was some loose fragments of broken cat converter, they could be tapping inside the pipes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...