Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I priced up some BC Golds for $1495NZD, plus $500NZD for the certification to make them legal, when I found some Jamex springs for $299NZD delivered that will give me a 40mm drop.

The seller (Jamex NZ) says there are no problems with using these as they are legal (no cert needed, direct replacement etc) and are fine with standard shocks - even saying they have never had issues with any of their springs being used on standard height shocks.

I understand the attraction of coilvers, but I don't think I NEED that kind of adjustability. I just don't wanna wreck my ride or injure anyone by using lowering springs alone.

Are they really that bad?

P.S. At $400+ a corner to replace only the shocks(KYB) it is worth going to coilovers, but only if I need to replace them.

OEM shocks can be had for significantly less than $400 per corner!

Think amayama.com or similar.
I can possibly get information for you as someone just purchased a swag of OEM suspension components (including all 4 shocks) and the total was just over $700 delivered.

What is involved in the Certification for Coilovers? Is this for some kind of external/independant testing?

I'm curious, as the main stumbling block to engineering BC coilovers in NSW (Australia) is the absence of material data & testing info from the parent manufacturer.
If I had this kind of information; I could provide it to an engineer, and he'd be happy to sign them off.

OEM shocks can be had for significantly less than $400 per corner!

Think amayama.com or similar.

I can possibly get information for you as someone just purchased a swag of OEM suspension components (including all 4 shocks) and the total was just over $700 delivered.

What is involved in the Certification for Coilovers? Is this for some kind of external/independant testing?

I'm curious, as the main stumbling block to engineering BC coilovers in NSW (Australia) is the absence of material data & testing info from the parent manufacturer.

If I had this kind of information; I could provide it to an engineer, and he'd be happy to sign them off.

Getting a cert is easy (all my mods are certed/legal) but it costs around $550 so you tend to do it once for all the mods.

Over here the cert process is remarkably sensible.It is run by the Low Volume Vehicle Technical Association (not a government body) . Certifiers have a lot of discretion and although there is a guide manual which mandates some things much is left up to their experience and knowledge. For example they will pass Cusco camber arms but not some of the dodgy cheapo versions although there is not a list of approved arms as such.

OEM shocks can be had for significantly less than $400 per corner!

Think amayama.com or similar.

I can possibly get information for you as someone just purchased a swag of OEM suspension components (including all 4 shocks) and the total was just over $700 delivered.

Checked out amayama.com, and at $196USD per corner I'm looking at $922NZD plus shipping and 15% GST - call it an even $1200 plus springs and coilovers become a real possibility :whistling:

Checked out amayama.com, and at $196USD per corner I'm looking at $922NZD plus shipping and 15% GST - call it an even $1200 plus springs and coilovers become a real possibility :whistling:

Let me find out for you;there is a cheaper way.

I got Jamex lowered springs for my ARX and no problem with it. I bought it from Auckland.

Did you get them from the listing on TradeMe?

Let me find out for you;there is a cheaper way.

Don't rush, I don't need shocks. I just wanna lower my car and will use lowering springs unless they ruin my shock, at which stage I'll either replace or go coilovers.

The only way they will damage your shock is if you go too low, the actual shock will top out and crap around the top. I have seen this happen to an old set that I used 40mm lowered springs then cut 2 coils off, this was done for shits and giggles on an old cortina that we used as a paddock/dirt racer and we had it in that car for about a year and a half.

I lowered my 180 on Tein lowering springs and the shocks were fine for a couple of years. I finally replaced them with Bilstein coilovers for track work. I actually preferred the ride comfort on the road with just the lowering springs.

- Lance

Different car but still relevant, I had lowered King Springs with standard shocks on my R34 GTT for about a year and the ride quality was ... shocking (pardon the pun). Very crashy. The shocks also started leaking before long as they operated outside the designated area with the lowered springs. So in short, if you're going lower springs, get shorter shocks to match, to maintain ride quality.

I ended up going BC BR's with custom (softer) spring rates and difference with night and day, so much better than the OEM+King combo. I priced up a set of aftermarket shocks only, to go with the Kings, and they weren't much cheaper than the BC's...

Just my $0.02

  • Like 1

Keep the OEM shocks and get Lucas springs and you will be fine.

Ask a professional steering and suspension shop the part number, buy & install them your self and then take it back and get it aligned properly.

About $550 all up. $210 F/R pairs each and $85 for an alignment.

Ride remains almost the same (slightly stiffer) ride height less. Win/Win

Edited by Sinista32

No one has mentioned that if you're getting stiffer springs, the shocks aren't designed for them. You'll notice when going over a bump or a ditch it will be firmer on the compression but spring back quicker when the spring is released from its downward stroke. The standard shocks aren't designed to have that much force pushing on them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
×
×
  • Create New...